Dupuis Jewellery Auctioneers Experts Blog

Tiaras and crowns

Posted on May 6, 2015 by Duncan Parker

Offered in Spring 2015 Dupuis Fine Jewels Auction

Tiara: A Jeweller’s Crowning Achievement

Antique with Diamonds, Offered at Dupuis Spring 2008 Auction, Sold for $230,000

Once in a rare while, a tiara becomes available to the auction bidder. Tiaras are the essence of elegance, and always turn a gathering into an event. They convert a dance into a ball, the downtrodden Cinderella into Prince Charming’s sweetheart (snow-white horses, a golden carriage and glass slippers help, too).

Antique, With Moonstones, Sold in the Dupuis Fall 2011 Jewels Auction

A tiara is a crown worn high on the head, and usually has a semi-circular shape. Tiaras have been worn, in one form or another, for thousands of years, but the 19^th century produced some of the most beautiful and ornate of these jewels. The finest tiaras are decorated with gems mounted in precious metal.

Victorian Flower Form with Diamonds, Sold in the Dupuis Spring 2005 Jewels Auction

Royal heads around the world are regularly adorned with tiaras for special events and public appearances. Similarly, women with a complete and elegant jewellery wardrobe have a tiara for special occasions. However, even royalty may not wear a tiara every day, so we find it helpful to have a tiara that can be converted to other uses.

Small sapphire and diamond head top tiara

Set with Sapphire and Diamonds, Sold in the Dupuis Spring 2012 Auction

Many exquisite Victorian tiaras were convertible to necklace use, or could be taken apart to become earrings, bracelets, brooches, pendants (with additional fittings), greatly expanding their function in the owner’s jewel collection. Originally, these jewels would have been mounted in fitted boxes, sadly these boxes are often lost to history.

Modern reproduction ruby, diamond and sapphire tiara

Ruby, Sapphire and Diamond Tiara, Sold in the Dupuis January 2008 Jewels Auction

A charming use of a convertible tiara is to wear it on your head at a dinner, and wear the same jewel as a necklace at the dance afterwards. It won’t fall off while you’re dancing.

The tiara in the Dupuis Spring 2015 auction is adorned with diamonds and pearls, and it features a very rare collection of beautiful pink conch pearls. With the original accompanying diamond-mounted attachment, it easily converts to an elegant and stunning necklace. The set is offered with the original fitted box.

If there is a tiara around, everyone wants to try it on. I certainly do.

Everyone wants to wear one

Posted in Antique Jewellery, Auctions, Jewellery, Victorian | Comments Off

Inclusions in Gems, a view of the inner world of gemstones

Posted on January 28, 2015 by Duncan Parker

INCLUSIONS IN GEMS

A view of the inner world of gemstones

“Three phase” inclusions in a emerald

The inner world of gems is fascinating. Inclusions found within gems are the things that get gemmologists hooked on this science. We love to look at the fascinating crystals, growth features and strange structures in gems. Many inclusions are crystals of minerals.

Emerald:

An emerald may be identified as natural if it has three-phase inclusions (a solid, a liquid and a gas; with the solid being a crystal of some kind, and the gas being a bubble that sometimes can move around in the liquid). Emeralds originating from Colombia are particularly noted for three-phase inclusions.

Diamonds:

Diamonds can have lots of interesting inclusions, sometimes another diamond inside a diamond, but often a crystal of an entirely different mineral. We often see reddish garnet crystals in diamonds.

Diamond with bright red garnet inclusions

Sometimes we might see several different colours of inclusion in the same diamond. This one has an inclusion of garnet that is orange brown colour and another that is green and is possibly diopside:

Diamond 0.33ct orange brown and green crystals

Diamond with orange-brown garnet, and green (possibly diopside) crystal inclusions

Sometimes we don’t know what an inclusion is, being inside another gem makes it hard to get at, and complex to test, but it’s still really interesting to look at. This orangish inclusion in the corner of a diamond looks a bit like a lighthouse floating in space, or a Dalek (ask a Doctor Who fan). It isn’t either of those things, it’s a mineral, however, we’re not sure what that mineral is.

Diamond inclusion hexagonal crystal pinkish brown (9)

Pinkish brown crystal inclusion in a diamond

There are naturally occurring fractures in gems, they are often called “feathers”. I guess the reason for calling them “feathers” is because they can sometimes look like that. This one in a diamond really looks like a feather:

Diamond inclusion feather incident light

“Feather” in a diamond

Sapphire:

Sometimes we see inclusions of one colour mineral in another colour of gem. Here is a red crystal of a mineral called rutile in a blue sapphire. If it is placed just right (or wrong) the colours can combine to create a new colour to the eye (more purplish, in this case, with red mixed with the very nice blue)

Blue sapphire with a red rutile crystal inclusion

Emeralds can have some very interesting inclusions, apart from three-phase ones. Here we have opaque cube shaped yellow metallic pyrite inclusions that are of a size that can be seen with the naked eye. Emeralds usually have eye-visible inclusions of some kind.

Beryl emerald with pyrite inclusions 8 copy

Emerald with pyrite cube crystal inclusions

Quartz:

Among the most commonly seen gems in the world are those of the quartz family. There are so many varieties, colours and textures of quartz found all around the world, and each can have distinctive inclusions. Often, quartz is a modestly priced gem, and specimens with noticeable and desirable inclusions are often available. This example of “rock crystal” quartz features dark reddish-black needle-like inclusions, scattered like pick-up-sticks.

Rock crystal quartz with scattered needle-like tourmaline crystals

Inclusions are such an interesting feature of gems, and for any gemmologist with a microscope or a loupe, they’re among of the most fascinating features of a gem. While most people tend to think of inclusions in a negative way, they make gems unique, and give each its own fingerprint, providing hours of distraction for a gemologist, or anyone else.

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ABC of Gems

Posted on December 12, 2014 by Duncan Parker

A collection of many different gems in a bracelet

There is a beautiful and interesting gem for almost every letter of the alphabet. We all had an A B C book when we were little, why not carry this forward into our adult life (or our continued childhood) with an ABC of Gems? (All of the items featured in the photographs in this ABC of Gems have been offered in Dupuis Fine Jewellery Auctions, with the exception of those at U, V, W, X, and Y).

Amethyst, the February birthstone, has a very long history, and is a lovely violet gem, here is an example of some violets carved from amethyst:

Amethyst flowers

Beryl is a gem found in many colours including blue (aquamarine), and green (emerald). These golden beryls are specially cut and matched for this brooch:

A fan of custom cut golden beryls

Coral is found in the Mediterranean Sea, and forms in branch-like shapes with red, orange and pink colours:

Coral stems on a flower brooch

Diamond, the world’s best known gem, is the hardest substance in nature. It forms deep in the earth, and is carried to the surface by volcanic activity. We need to move tons of rock to extract a single carat of this exceptional gem. Diamond is the birthstone for April.

diamond solitaire pendant 9.38 carats

Emerald is a green gem, with a very long history from “Cleopatra’s emerald mine” in the ancient world, to the famous source of emeralds in Colombia. The fresh spring-like green of an emerald makes it a calming and refreshing gem. Emerald is the birthstone for May.

Emerald and diamonds in a ballerina ring

Fibrolite, is a less common gem, and is often found exhibiting a clear and sharp “cat’s eye”. The colour is often grey.

Fibrolite cat’s eye ring

Garnet is a gem found in every colour of the rainbow. Best known as a brownish red gem, garnet is also found in rare yellowish green Demantoid, and brilliant green Tsavorite. Garnet is there birthstone for January.

Very fine tsavorite garnet

Hematite is a bright, shiny grey metallic gem, often used as beads, or in men’s jewellery.

Hematite in cufflinks and tie tac by Schlumberger for Tiffany

Ivory is a gem principally from the tusks of elephants. There are some beautiful gems and carvings made from ivory. It is from an endangered species, trade is restricted, and is no longer offered at auction by Dupuis.

Ivory netsuke carving

Jadeite jade is a gem principally found in Myanmar (formerly Burma), and is most prized in a rich uniform green colour and with a high degree of translucency.

Fine jadeite jade and diamond ring

Kunzite is a pink to purple gem found in the United States and Afghanistan, and it is named after a gemologist and friend of Louis Comfort Tiffany, George Kunz.

Kunzite and diamond ring

Lapis lazuli is a rich blue ornamental gem. The most famous source is Afghanistan, and the gems from there can be a vivid blue unlike any other gem.

Lapis Lazuli and gold necklace

Moonstone is a mysterious gem that has a silvery “moon” that floats around as the gem moves.

Antique moonstone necklace

Nephrite jade is one of two gems named jade. Most notably in an olive green colour. It is found in countries around the world, including in Canada’s British Columbia.

Nephrite jade leaves and coral beads in a brooch

Opal is famous for its flashes of the colours of the spectrum. It is most valuable if it has bright flashes of all colours of the spectrum. The best known source is Australia. Opal is the birthstone for October.

Black opal and diamond ring

Pearl was likely used as an ornamental gem before almost anything else. Pearls were the first “free prizes” in the history of food. Biting into an oyster and finding a pearl was a pretty nice bonus for our ancient ancestors. Natural pearls are very rare today, but are still sometimes found. Pearl is the birthstone for June.

Cultured pearl necklace in a rainbow of colours

Quartz, truly an ABC of gems in itself, is a gem that has colours and textures to suit all styles and tastes. Quartz has been found in ancient jewels, and it is found in every continent. Amethyst is the most precious variety, Citrine follows closely behind, carnelian is a translucent orange variety that has been used for thousands of years.

Citrine bracelet

Ruby is a red gem, most famously found in Myanmar (formerly Burma). it is the birthstone for July, it is associated with Power and passion. The inner glow of a fine ruby is unlike any other gem. Ruby is the birthstone for July.

Ruby and diamond ring, “pigeon blood” colour

Sapphire is another ABC of gems because it can be any colour except red (red colour of this mineral is called ruby). The most sought after sapphire is a rich velvety blue colour that is now depleted, but was found in Kashmir until the mid-20th Century. Currently sapphires are found in Myanmar (formerly Burma), Sri Lanka, Madagascar, Thailand, Cambodia, Australia, and even in Canada’s Baffin Island. Other highly desired colours are pink, and yellow. Sapphire is the birthstone for September.

Antique sapphire and diamond ring

Topaz is best known in two main colours, yellowish orange (sometimes called “imperial topaz”), and blue. but it is found in pink, colourless, and others too. Found in many countries including Brazil and Russia, it is the birthstone for November.

Topaz necklace

Uvarovite is a variety of garnet that usually forms in tiny crystals, sometimes used as “drusy” (clusters of tiny crystals covering a surface) in finished jewellery. Very rarely it is large enough crystals to facet (but still very small)

Uvarovite garnet (0.50mm in diameter)

Vulcanite was produced in the 19th Century as an inexpensive alternative to the organic gem, jet. Vulcanite is an opaque black vulcanized rubber compound that is hard, and was usually moulded into what appeared as carved forms.

Vulcanite cameo mounted on mother of pearl

Welo Opal is named after its source in Ethiopia. It is opal from a new source, and is noted for bright colours.

Welo opal (rough – unpolished)

X-Ray (some letters in an ABC of Gems are more difficult) Used in the identification of pearls, X-Ray testing can assist in separating natural pearls from cultured pearls. X-rays are also used in separating diamonds from ore at diamond mines.

X-ray of cultured pearls showing mother of pearl beads inside the cultured pearls

Yttrium Aluminium Garnet (YAG) is a laboratory grown material originally used as a diamond simulant, it is now produced in many different colours. It is hard and durable, and serves as an inexpensive imitation of other gems.

Laboratory grown YAG

Zircon (we can finish an ABC of Gems with a genuine gem): Zircon is a natural gem that is found in yellow, brown, green, blue and colourless. Zircons can be very pretty and dispersive, showing sparkles of colour you might expect in a diamond.

Zircon and diamond ring

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Garnet: A Gem of All Colours

Posted on November 18, 2014 by Duncan Parker

Lot 500: Antique Garnet, Diamond, Enamel and Gold Pendant Necklace. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

Garnets are among the most familiar gems, and they are the birthstone for January. We usually think of garnets as brownish red, but they come in a rainbow of colours and are among the most interesting gems available. They are used in everything from casual to formal jewels. They can make a thoroughly modern statement and are also found in very fine antiques.

Rhodolite

Lot 488: Rhodolite Garnet, Diamond and 18K White Gold Ring. A modern Kieselstein Cord ring, offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

Far from being from a narrow palette of brownish to reddish, pyrope and almandine garnets, or the pinkish red “rhodolite”, we have a rainbow of possibilities.

Demantoid

Demantoid garnets are among the most precious garnets. Most famously found in Russia, these green garnets can be bright and lively, and are often seen in antique jewellery. Demantoid is one of the few gems in which people actually want to see detectable inclusions, and these golden fibre inclusions are called “horsetails”, their presence helps to prove that the gem is demantoid.

Lot 319: An Antique Demantoid Garnet and Diamond Bee Brooch. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

Grossular

Grossular garnet is found in a number of colours, an attractive cinnamon colour is called hessonite.

Lot 628: Three Unmounted Hessonite Garnets. Offered in the Dupuis Spring 2014 Jewels Auction

Another colour of grossular garnet is a yellowish green.

Lot 105: A Garnet, Diamond, Platinum and Gold Floral Pendant/Brooch. Grossular garnet cabochon. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

Tsavorite is the most precious of grossular garnets. Principally sourced in Tanzania, these are among the most beautiful of green gems.

Lot 537: Unmounted 3.35-Carat Tsavorite Garnet. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

Tsavorite garnets are often used as accent gems around feature stones in modern jewellery, and the rich green works very well to complement other colours.

Lot 43: A Lavender Jadeite and Tsavorite Garnet Ring. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

Colour Change

The newest, and possibly rarest, garnet is a colour change gem that shows blue in daylight and a purple to pink in incandescent light. This fascinating phenomenon is highly desired among collectors, and is unquestionably a conversation starter.

Lot 237: An Unmounted Colour-Change Garnet. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

Garnets are unquestionably a beautiful and fascinating gem that can have an appeal to every taste, style and budget.

Lot 446: Enamel, Diamond, Garnet and 14K Gold Pansy Brooch. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

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Colour in diamonds

Posted on November 6, 2014 by Duncan Parker

Lot 411: A Coloured Diamond Ring. 6.50 carats, fancy yellow colour, VVS-1 clarity. Offered in the Fall 2014 Dupuis Jewels Auction

We usually think of diamonds as being colourless sparkly beauties that create joy among the recipients. And so they are. However, we also have diamonds that are colourful sparkly beauties, too. Colour is a property of almost all diamonds, but in many cases it is so slight that we have a hard time noticing it.

In some rare cases, there can be enough colour to make diamonds very interesting and attractive. The colours may be anywhere in the spectrum.

What is is that makes a diamond valuable? You know the famous “4 c’s”; carat weight, clarity, cut, and, of course, colour. Colour can have a huge influence on the value. The rarer the colour, the more value it will have, all other things being equal.

Lot 329: A Pair of Diamond Ear Studs. One centre diamond is “D” colour, the other is “E”. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

What is rare colour? Most diamonds have a degree of yellow in them, but in many we don’t really notice it. Diamond colour is graded alphabetically. “D” in diamond is totally colourless, and as we make our way through, we find more tint with each further letter in the alphabet. Only when we reach “Z” do we edge towards a pretty and desirable colour in a diamond.

YELLOW

Diamonds that have yellow colour slightly lighter than “Z” may be called “light fancy”, more intense than “Z” are considered “fancy” yellow diamonds, stronger yellow than “fancy” are called “intense”, and the strongest, brightest yellow is called “vivid”.

Lot 299: A Coloured diamond Pendant Necklace. Light fancy yellow diamonds. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

Lot 487: Coloured Diamond and 18K White Gold Ring. Natural fancy yellow. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

Lot 365: An Unmounted Coloured Diamond. Fancy intense yellow 3.05 carats, VVS-1 clarity. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

Lot 269: A Coloured Diamond Ring. Fancy Vivid yellow, 2.04 carats, VVS-2 clarity. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

THE FULL SPECTRUM

If we go beyond yellow, there is a spectrum of colour available in diamonds, from tiny variations in tint to a whole rainbow.

A range of natural colour diamonds, from faint pink, yellow, blue and brown, through fancy, intense, vivid and deep

The words used to describe yellow colours are also used to describe other colours: Faint, Light Fancy, Fancy, Fancy Intense, Fancy Vivid for increasing colour saturation, plus Fancy Dark, and Fancy Deep for the darker tones.

Historically, diamonds that have noticeable and attractive colour have been known to be rare and highly desirable. The Dresden Green, a 41 carat bright green diamond in the collection in the Green Vault in Dresden is one of the most famous. Probably the most famous coloured diamond in the world is the Hope Diamond at the Smithsonian in Washington, it is a 45.52 carat fancy blue colour.

BROWN

Brown colours, often referred to as “Champagne” diamonds are more available than other colours, due to production at the Argyle mine in Australia. There is good demand for these diamonds, particularly among designers of modern jewellery.

Lot 644: Coloured Diamond and Two-Tone 18K Gold Ring. Brown colour. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

CHAMELEON

There are some unusual diamonds that do tricks. They change colour when left in the dark for a few days, and then are exposed to light, or are examined at room temperature and then are gently heated to about 150 degrees C. These unusual and rare diamonds change from a somewhat olive green in light, or at room temperature, to a yellowish brown when kept in the dark, or heated.

Lot 534: Unmounted 1.64 Carat “Chameleon” Diamond. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Sale

PINK

Pink is among the most desirable of colours, and the Argyle mine in Australia is the source of most pink diamonds. Pinks have been in very high demand, and prices have escalated amid speculation about the imminent closure of the Argyle mine. The Victor Mine, in Ontario, Canada has also produced the occasional, very rare pink. Brazil has produced some large pink diamonds.

Lot 658: An Unmounted 0.21 carat Coloured Diamond. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

BLUE

Blue diamonds are extremely rare, and occasionally a bidder will have the opportunity to add one to their collection through auction. Blue is a rare accident of nature, some have originated in India, some in Africa, and some at the Argyle mine in Australia. The Hope diamond would have originated in India.

Lot 298: A Coloured Diamond Ring. Light Grey Blue. Offered in the Dupuis Spring 2014 Jewels Auction

RED

The rarest of all colours is red. Red diamonds are so rare that most of us will never see one. There are only be a few produced each year. Some red diamonds may sell for over as a million dollars a carat. The Argyle Mine in Australia is the best known source for red.

Diamond Natural fancy red Argyle 0.22ct (4)

Red diamond, 0.22 carat, mined at the Argyle mine in Australia

Auction is the place where we see the majority of important coloured diamonds offered for sale. At Dupuis, each auction sees numerous coloured diamonds available for bidding.

www.dupuis.ca will take you to past and current catalogues.

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Nature in Jewels

Posted on October 17, 2014 by Duncan Parker

A Diamond and White Gold Floral Brooch: Lot 352 in the Dupuis Fall Auction

The work of the goldsmith and jewellery artist constantly reveals influences of nature in jewels. Faberge’s eggs, made to commemorate birth, life and reconciliation are an obvious example. The sprays of flowers that were so popular in the 1950’s and 1960’s, bringing the garden indoors, add sparkle and glitter to any occasion.

Organic Gems

Five Coral and 10K gold jewels: Lot 507 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 auction

We regularly see genuine pieces of nature in jewels, too. We refer to these as “organic gems” and they are actually the product of nature, used as jewels or as gems in jewellery.

South Sea Cultured Pearl and 18K gold Necklace: Lot 542 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

Pearls are probably the first gem ever collected: Smooth, shiny things that came right out of an oyster, ready to wear.

Amber is fossilized resin from pre-historic trees. It’s been collected around the shores of the Baltic Sea for centuries. It is at its most interesting, and far more valuable when there are other elements of nature in jewels of amber; insects or plant material, or even small lizards. These inclusions aren’t found in other gems, and make amber quite unique.

Coral (red coral and black coral), Diamond, Cultured Pearl and Sterling Silver Brooch: Lot 450 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

Coral is a beautiful jewel of nature, most popularly in red, orange and pink colours. Coral provides an excellent accent to jewellery and also stands on its own very well as beads or carved gems.

Fauna

A Gold Snake Bangle Bracelet: Lot 267 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

There are also many realistic or fantastic representations of nature in jewels, a favourite at auction is animal shapes, either domestic or wild animals, or mythological creatures. The Cartier Panther, a Van Cleef & Arpels lion, dolphins, or the articulated fish on grandmother’s charm bracelet. These are all animal forms found regularly in jewellery. Dragons, gryphons, and unicorns are among the fantastic creatures seen in jewellery.

14K Gold Cat Brooch: Lot 460 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

Gem Set and 18K gold Dog Brooch: Lot 459 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

Cats are often seen in jewellery, from domestic large-eyed kittens to dangerous lions, they cover the range from cute to daunting. “Man’s best friend”, the dog, is represented in jewels regularly, whether a charm of our favourite pug or a hunting dog represented carved in intaglio in an Essex crystal. Of course, we also see real dogs wearing jewels sometimes. Which self respecting lap dog would turn down the offer of a diamond collar?

A Diamond and Gold Bird Brooch (by Van Cleef & Arpels): Lot 29 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

Birds are very common representations of nature in jewels. Perhaps symbolizing freedom, or simply because some of the most beautiful and elegant creatures on the earth are birds, winged creatures are often seen flying through the air below our ears, or as pendants on a chain, or as brooches.

Flora

Gold Oak Leaf Cuff Bracelet, by Buccellati: Lot 28 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

Branches and leaves embrace our wrists, fingers, or collars regularly. Tendrils, vines, bunches of grapes are common themes, bringing elements of plants in nature to our wardrobe of accessories.

Diamond and 14K White Gold Pendant/Brooch: Lot 543 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

Often the elements of nature in jewels are more subtle, and are only representations that leave an impression of nature without a direct reference to a plant or animal. These inspirations are probably the most common, and are among the most inspired designs around.

Nature is all around us, so it isn’t surprising that jewellers find themselves being influenced by the beauty of it all.

A Diamond, Pink and Yellow Sapphire Floral Brooch: Lot 335 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

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Jewels tell stories

Posted on July 15, 2014 by Duncan Parker

Jewels tell stories, sometimes publicly, and sometimes secretly

Victorian REGARD Ring: Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Anethyst, Ruby, Diamond spell the word

All jewels tell stories. An engagement ring carries the story of love. A wedding ring carries the story of something never-ending within its unbroken circle. An eternity ring emphasizes that unending circle of life and love.

Through history, we have seen jewels tell stories. There are some commonly seen examples of jewels telling a story. Once in a while, jewels carry a secret message, and sometimes the story is not so secret.

The Victorians had the tendency to like secret messages in their art and crafts. The “REGARD” ring was a jewel that told a story that was not really secret, because these rings were common enough that surely most people would have recognized them. The name comes from the word made up from the initials of the gems in a row across the front. Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby, Diamond. Other words were possible, but “regard” was most popular. A person, overcome with a strong “regard” for another, would present them with such a ring to convey their feelings. (The possibilities for rude messages are huge, we should be glad they aren’t common jewels these days).

A Victorian REGARD ring missing a ruby and diamond

The Victorians were also very aware of mythology, and mythological themes were often shown in carved cameos. The story told in a cameo jewel may be from classical myths. Here, there is a cameo that represents Night, a shrouded figure, looking downwards, and with a moon above her head, and Day, with clouds around her, looking with upturned face, and rays of light radiating around her head.

A Victorian cameo showing the allegory of Night and Day

The death of Queen Victoria’s husband, Albert, in 1861, sent Victoria into mourning, and the rest of Britain embraced mourning. Mourning jewels tell the story of loss. Usually decorated with black enamel or made from black gems, mourning jewels tell an obvious story of the death of a loved one. Some mourning jewels also incorporate a small piece of hair from the person being remembered

Victorian mourning ring, remembering the loss of a husband at the age of 47, in 1885

Victorian mourning jewels: Black enamelled brooch set with a camel of Rebecca at the well, and a carved jet cameo from the estate of Mrs Robertson Davies, sold at auction at Dupuis

Victorian mourning jewels, one with hair and one set with black banded agate

These days, a “family ring” tells a story. The story told by a family ring is that of the offspring of the wearer, most commonly mothers. When you see a ring with a row of apparently unrelated gemstones that don’t spell a message, it is likely a family ring.

A family ring is usually set with a group of similar sized birthstones, one for each of the children of the wearer. These jewel tells the story of the family of the mother.

A family ring with the birthstones for each of the mother’s children

Other jewels tell stories of a personal or group achievement or a victory. One of the most notable type of jewels that tell a story is a championship ring. These are very rare, and unlike a REGARD ring, which is meant to be a secret message, a championship ring is an obvious public statement.

Issued to members of a victorious team, a championship ring only goes on to a very few fingers. One of the rarest is depicted here, a Toronto Maple Leafs Stanley Cup ring. Last seen in 1967:

Toronto Maple Leafs Stanley Cup ring 1967

The engagement ring, given by Robertson Davies to Brenda, backstage at the Old Vic theatre in London, 1940

Sometimes a jewel tells stories in two ways. A famous owner can add another level of story. An engagement ring tells the story of love, but the engagement ring of a well known person tells another story at the same time. The engagement ring that famed Canadian author, journalist, publisher, and academic, Robertson Davies, gave to his true love Brenda, was sold at Dupuis Auctions, and is silver with a purple glass intaglio. It was very popular at auction because of the combined stories of the engagement and the famous owner, and sold for $1,500.00.

All jewels tell a story, but some tell more than others. Some of the stories are secrets that we may never know, and others are very public, but all are important.

Posted in Antique Jewellery, Auctions, Jewellery, Uncategorized | Tagged jewels, mythology, stories, symbols, Victorian | Comments Off

Natural Pearls, rare beauties of the natural world, and how we identify them

Posted on June 27, 2014 by Duncan Parker

Natural pearl necklace: Lot 261 in Dupuis Spring 2014 Auction, sold for $60,000 http://bit.ly/DUPUIS-LOT-261

Natural pearls are a very rare thing. They have grown by accident, and are the product of incredible good fortune. Once upon a time people would dive, time after time, into the ocean, searching for the one elusive “oyster” that was bearing the extraordinary gift of a pearl. These natural pearls are very rare, and highly desired today.

The translucency of the pearl material called “nacre” gives natural pearls a radiance that is unlike anything else. This translucency allows light to penetrate the natural pearl and produces reflection of light and iridescence, often in a rainbow of colours, sometimes referred to as “orient” or “overtones”.

What gives value to a pearl is its size, the smoothness of its surface, the roundness of its shape, its body colour, the colours of the “overtones” seen in each, and the matching of the pearls if there are more than one.

One of the ways that we distinguish natural pearls from cultured pearls is that cultured pearls usually have a bead of mother of pearl inside, and a layer of the pearl material called nacre laid on by the mollusc, or “oyster” on the outside, and natural pearls are layers of nacre all the way to the centre, with no bead.

We can X-ray pearls to detect a bead, or sometimes we can look down the drill hole to detect a bead. In natural pearls we often see layer after layer all the way to the centre of the pearl. Following are some images of the layered structure seen in some of the natural pearls in the necklace shown above.

Looking down the drill hole of a natural pearl

The layered structure seen down the drill hole in a natural pearl

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Diamond Shapes

Posted on June 26, 2014 by Duncan Parker

Diamond Shapes

12.37 Carat Diamond Crystal

Diamond shapes are widely varied. There is a reason; a diamond crystal is like so many products of nature; slightly variable within a general form. A perfect diamond crystal is an octahedron, in the form of a four sided pyramid pointing up, on top of a four sided pyramid pointing down, in other words: A square shaped eight sided form.

If diamond crystals are square, why are so many cut and polished diamonds in a round shape? The earliest diamonds in jewellery were uncut, and the earliest cut diamonds were actually square, with a cut-off top, like opening a hard boiled egg, this was called a table cut.

Table Cut Diamond in a ring

In the 18th Century, diamond cutters developed a more sophisticated cut to reveal better and brighter sparkle in a diamond. This cut we call “old mine cut”, and prevailed for the century that Brazil was the main world source of diamonds. Old Mine cut diamonds are rounded square forms, but still reflect the original squarish crystal shape.

Old Mine Cut Diamond

Back in the second half of the 19th Century, diamond cutters worked out that a round shape could produce a diamond of uniform brilliance and sparkle, this round diamond took the next step past the old mine cut, and is called the old European cut.

Old European Cut Diamond: Lot 113, Dupuis Spring 2014 Jewels Auction http://bit.ly/DUPUIS-LOT-113

In the early years of the 20th Century, an engineer, Marcel Tolkowsky, calculated the shape and exact proportions and angles to create the most brilliant, sparkly diamond, and in 1919, published his findings. We never looked back, and his work still stands as the basis for the modern round brilliant cut diamond.

Round Brilliant Cut Diamonds: Lot 286 in the Dupuis Spring 2014 Jewels Auction http://bit.ly/DUPUIS-LOT-286

That is the beginning, we have all sorts of other shapes of diamond cut. Why do we have them? First: People have different tastes, so not everyone wants a round diamond, and a round diamond doesn’t suit everyone or every occasion. Second: diamond crystals aren’t all exactly the same. While crystals of diamond are identical in their composition and structure, they might have different outward appearances. Some might be more rounded, some stretched out into a rectangular form, some might come out of the ground as fragments. The diamond cutter will assess each crystal, and will work out how to make the most of it. If a crystal has an unusual form, that may dictate the final shape of the polished gem.

Pear shaped diamond pendant: Lot 388 in the Dupuis Spring 2014 jewels sale. Sold for $509,000 http://bit.ly/DUPUIS-LOT-388

Popularity of diamond shapes may be driven by fashion. One year marquise shaped diamonds may be a favourite, and another year a pear shape may be in vogue. Round diamonds remain the most popular shape, and any shape other than round is called a “fancy shape”. Generally, fancy shape diamonds are cut because the rough diamond would produce the best looking gem and the most advantageous financial result that way.

The diamond cutter’s job is two fold: Make the most beautiful gem, and don’t waste any of the precious diamond. If that means making a heart shape, then that is what will be.

Following are examples of some of the more regularly used diamond cut shapes.

Heart shaped diamond: Lot 517, Dupuis Spring 2014 Jewels Auction

Rectangular radiant cut diamond: Lot 310 Dupuis Spring 2014 Jewels Auction

Princess cut diamonds: Lot 691, Dupuis Spring 2014 Jewels Auction

Trilliant cut diamonds: Lot 669, Dupuis Spring 2014 Jewels Auction

Rectangular cushion shaped diamond: Lot 383, Dupuis Spring 2014 Jewels Auction

Emerald cut diamond: Lot 342, Dupuis Spring 2014 Jewels Auction

Posted in Gemmology, Uncategorized | Comments Off

Birthstones in fine jewellery?

Posted on May 15, 2014 by Duncan Parker

We all have preferences in our choice of gemstones, but one thing we might feel more connected to is our birthstone. Birthstones are gems that have been chosen for astrological reasons and are associated with certain months. In almost every auction, we find that there is a full representation of the traditional Western birthstones. Looking through these birthstones, people might be pleased to find that there are diverse choices available. Birthstones are not limited to family rings.

January: Garnet: While we tend to think of Garnets as having a narrow palette of brownish red colours, there is a broad spectrum available, green varieties such as the very rare Demantoid being the most valuable, the most famous source of demantoid is the Ural Mountains in Russia.

An Antique Demantoid Garnet and Diamond Bee Brooch: Lot 50, Spring 2014 sale

February: Amethyst is a purple variety of quartz, and is only one colour, but a beautiful colour. Amethyst is very popular today, and was also very popular in the Victorian period. In Ancient Rome, an amethyst dropped into a glass of wine was thought to prevent inebriation. It is the Provincial gemstone of Ontario, Canada.

Amethyst, Turquoise and 14K Gold Ring: Lot 462, Spring 2014 sale

March: Aquamarine is a greenish blue to blue gem. Its name derived from Latin, suggests the colour of water (aqua) and sea (marine). The gem ranges from pale to intense, and is most treasured in a strong blue colour. It most famously originates in Brazil.

Aquamarine, Diamond and 18K Gold Ring: Lot 485, Spring 2014 sale

April: Diamond is the best known gem in the world. There are more legends and histories revolving around diamonds than all other gems combined. For thousands of years, India was the only known source of these gems, until the 18th Century when they were discovered in Brazil, and the 19th Century when they were discovered in South Africa. The 21st Century sees diamonds being mined in Australia, Canada, Russia, Namibia, and Botswana, among other countries. Canada is the 3rd largest diamond producer in the world. It is rare to see a diamond as fine as Lot 388, the pear shaped 9.35 carat, F colour, VS-1 clarity gem in the Spring 2014 sale.

A Diamond Solitaire Pendant: Lot 388, Spring 2014 sale

May: Emeralds are the green variety of the mineral beryl. Historical myth states that Emperor Nero looked through an emerald monocle at gladiator fights and during the burning of Rome. Emeralds are a soothing gem. They naturally have visible inclusions, sometimes referred to as “jardin” (garden from French). It is truly rare to find an emerald as beautifully coloured and as clear to the eye as Lot 49 in the Spring 2014 sale. It is truly an exceptional gem.

An Emerald and Diamond Ring: Lot 49, Spring 2014 sale

June: Alexandrite is a fascinating gem. It appears one colour in one kind of light, and another colour in another kind of light. The gem’s name originates from the time of its discovery in Russia in April 1834 on the birthday of the future Tsar, Alexander II. Its colours from Russian sources are famously green in sunlight, and red in candlelight, or incandescent light, and red and green were the Russian national colours. Some specimens from other sources are purple to blue, but the colour change is fascinating either way.

An Alexandrite and Diamond Ring: Incandescent light (left), daylight (right): Lot 123, Spring 2014 sale

Pearls are an alternate birthstone for June. Natural pearls are very rare, and occur purely by an accident of nature. Most pearls we see are cultured, and while the outer surface is exactly the same on the cultured and natural pearls, the cultured pearls are helped along, usually by placing a mother of pearl bead inside the mollusc, and it then coats it with nacre (pearl material) for a few years. Natural pearls are the nacre material through to the centre, and may have taken many years to form. Lot 365 is a very rare and unusually large pearl that has an independent report describing it as natural.

A Natural Pearl, Diamond and Platinum Brooch (14.74mm diameter pearl): Lot 365, Spring 2014 sale

July: Ruby is a red gem, a passionate colour for a passionate gem. The finest colour is brilliantly pure red, and the gem most commonly has inclusions visible to the eye. The most famous source of ruby is Myanmar (formerly Burma). Ancient literature suggests that someone who dreams of a ruby will have good fortune. It would certainly be good fortune to be the highest bidder on the exceptionally red Lot 355. While the vast majority of rubies have been heated to improve their colour, this ruby is untreated.

A Ruby and Diamond Ring: Lot 355, Spring 2014 sale

August: Peridot is one of those gems that is only available in one colour. It is a yellowish green, and most often is clean to the eye. Historically, the most famous source of peridot is the “Serpent Isle”, in the Red Sea. The gem was used in ancient Egypt, and was only to be used by those of the highest rank in society. It was said to dispel the dark things of the night. Today, Pakistan and Myanmar (formerly Burma) are sources of important peridots. This ring by British designer Theo Fennell makes wonderful use of the colours of peridot and topaz in combination.

A Peridot and Blue Topaz Ring: Lot 280, Spring 2014 sale

September: Sapphires may be any colour except red (ruby is the same mineral, but is the red colour). Sapphires famously originate in Kashmir, Sri Lanka, and Myanmar (Burma), but are also mined in Madagascar, Australia, Thailand, and other countries. Blue is the colour most associated with sapphire, and the finest colour is a bright medium blue sometimes referred to as “cornflower blue”. Sapphire is considered to be a soothing gem.

A Sapphire and Diamond Ring: Lot 265, Spring 2014 sale

October: Opal is an unusual gem. Opals may have a number of different appearances, and may be clear and colourless to black or orange or red in their body colour, and are valued for the flashes of colours that shimmer about on their surface when they move in the light. Queen Victoria loved opals. The most famous source of opal is Australia, with the most precious, black opal, originating principally in a small town called Lightning Ridge.

A Black Opal, Diamond and Platinum Ring: Lot 252, Spring 2014 sale

November: Topaz is a gem found in numerous colours. The golden yellow colour is best known, while pink is rare. Blue in various shades is widely available, often produced by treating colourless topaz. Historically, citrine and smoky quartz have mistakenly been referred to as topaz. Brazil is the most famous source for topaz. With a slight overtone of pinkish, golden yellow topaz is often referred to as “imperial” topaz.

A Topaz and Diamond Pendant: Lot 24, Spring 2014 sale

December: Tanzanite has recently been adopted as a Birthstone for December. Introduced to the world by Tiffany, Tanzanite made its debut in 1967. This lively purplish blue gem is found principally in one source not far from the base of Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, the country after which it is named.

Unmounted 9.29-Carat Oval Tanzanite: Lot 491, Spring 2014 sale

Posted in Auctions, Gemmology, Jewellery | Comments Off

Dupuis Jewellery Auctioneers Experts Blog

Tiaras and crowns

Inclusions in Gems, a view of the inner world of gemstones

ABC of Gems

Garnet: A Gem of All Colours

Colour in diamonds

Nature in Jewels

Jewels tell stories

Natural Pearls, rare beauties of the natural world, and how we identify them

Diamond Shapes

Birthstones in fine jewellery?

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