Discover the Value of your Jewels

Category: design

Antique Jewels: Moving Stories, Histories, Great Beauty

Antique Amethyst and Diamond Earrings Late 19th Century, Russian
sold 2019, $36,000

The word “antique” usually refers to items that are at least one hundred years old.

Obviously, based on the definition, “antique” means that with each year’s passing, more recent items fit into that description. When Dupuis Fine Jewellery Auctioneers was founded by Ron Dupuis, a 100 year old “antique” jewel had to date from 1886 (when Britain’s Queen Victoria still had another 15 years left on the throne) or earlier. Today, an antique could date from the 1920s. In a few years, Art Deco items can begin to be classified as antique.

Antique diamond brooch pendant
Antique Diamond, Enamel.Silver and Gold Brooch, Circa 1880, sold November 2021, $36,000

We adore jewels because they are lovely little treasures exuding beauty in design, craft, gems, and style. Jewels are also wonderful accessories, and tell a personal tale. An antique jewel has had so much time to build its story.

Antique Diamond, Enamel and Gold Brooch, by Faberge, Circa 1895, sold November 2021, $2,000

For an antique, the tale it tells can be so poignant. Imagine a brooch that was worn by a bride at her wedding in 2000, at the beginning of a new century, an exciting future ahead, and the same brooch was worn by her mother at her wedding, her grandmother, and her great grandmother, all at their weddings. The stories that brooch could tell…

Antique Natural Pearl, Diamond, silver and Gold Brooch, Circa 1860, sold November 2021, $17,000

Sometimes a jewel tells its own tale out loud. There may be stamps and marks that reveal information. A hallmark might be tracked to a particular country, city, date, and maker. These may be quite comprehensive, as seen in a British Hallmark, featuring a series of stamps that will provide all of this. Other stamps may be less detailed, but still provide some hints to a jewel’s story. A stamp for 15K gold, for example on a British gold jewel indicates that the jewel can only date from 1854-1932, not before and not after.

Antique Pearl, Diamond, Platinum and Gold Ring, sold November 2021 $15,000

Mourning

Sometimes the engraving of a personal message will help a jewel to convey its message. The sad story of a family which lost a member, a jewel that commemorates the person, usually referred to a memorial jewellery.

Memorial Ring with Diamonds and Black Enamel on Gold, sold February 2021, $900

Messages

Perhaps a happy occasion might be remembered, a jewel that commemorates an important event, such as the birth of a grandchild is common. In the nineteenth Century, brooches were commonly used to convey messages. Sometimes, gemstones were used to spell out a message: The initial letters of Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby, and Diamond spelled out the word “REGARD” in rings and pendants

REGARD (Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby, Diamond) Pendant offered in February 2022

Jewels may tell the story of a goal achieved, a threshold passed. The jewel itself may be a commemoration, but sometimes, more often in men’s rather than in women’s jewels, the jewel may clearly spell out the reason for the celebration. There is not nearly so much man’s jewellery as women’s jewellery. Perhaps because some shirt studs, cufflinks, and a pocket watch were just about all that grandfather had by way of jewels, they are often very precious in a family. A pocket watch was often a special presentation gift, and is frequently engraved with a monogram, and sometimes with a note to carry the story into the future: “On your graduation”, “to celebrate 25 years of service”, “on our golden wedding anniversary”, and so on.

25th Anniversary Antique Diamond, Ruby, Silver and Gold Brooch, by Faberge, sold June 2020 $9,500
Engraved Date on the Reverse of the Antique Diamond, Ruby, Silver and Gold Brooch, by Faberge

When an antique jewel is purchased at auction, it begins a new branch of its journey. The story never ends, it just receives new chapters with each new owner.

An Antique Sapphire, Seed Pearl, Enamel and Gold Brooch, sold November 2021, $3,000

Toni Cavelti

Modern Classic

Toni Cavelti is a creative artist, craftsman, and jeweller based in Vancouver, British Columbia, on Canada’s beautiful West coast. He has retired from jewellery, but continues to be a creative artist. He has said that he feels jewellery is more craft than art. However, the jewels we see from the Cavelti workshop are easy to see as art.

1960s-1970s architecturally inspired brooch

Apprenticed in Switzerland, in 1954, a young Toni Cavelti arrived in his chosen new home of Vancouver, British Columbia. He found work in the jewellery business, and his designs and style promptly became an important part of Vancouver style and society.

In the 1960s and 1970s, nature and geometry combined in vibrant designs that are both bold and joyful. The combination of space and reflection, texture and polish creates highlights and depth of form.

1960s-1970s: A classic opal and diamond brooch, featured in the Max Wyman book Toni Cavelti, A Jeweller’s Life, and offered in the Important Jewels Auction, November 2020

Light and dark form a regular part of Cavelti’s style. The textures provide depth and highlights that capture the viewer’s imagination.

Diamond earrings exploring form and texture

Fine Gems

Cavelti’s work is widely recognized as innovative, carefully considered, and expertly made. Cavelti jewels have a balance and form that is immediately appealing to the eye. They are comfortable to wear, and make a joyful statement.

Vivid rubies forming a joyful heart pendant

Owners of Cavelti jewels recall the strong relationships developed with the jeweller. They often recall the design process, and many have his original artwork framed on their walls. Many jewels were created specifically for clients.

Experiments in light and reflection, highlighted with diamonds, creates a fascinating, rich texture

Gems used in Cavelti jewels are very fine. Colours are exquisite, carefully chosen, and perfectly matched. Rubies are as red as flames, emeralds are green as grass. Clarity is strikingly good. Cut is fine. Clearly Cavelti was not prepared to cut corners, and we are all the beneficiaries of his focus on quality.

Brilliant red rubies and fine diamonds. Cavelti chose gems very carefully

Published Source: Max Wyman: Toni Cavelti, A Jeweller’s Life

In 1996, Max Wyman wrote a book, Toni Cavelti, A Jeweller’s Life, a biography of Cavelti. The book documents the progress of the artist from his early years in Switzerland to becoming an icon of the jewellery world. Nine of the Jewels featured in the book are highlights of the Dupuis Important Jewels Auction in November 2020.

Featured in the Max Wyman book, Toni Cavelti, A Jeweller’s Life: “One of the most important stones to be handled in the Cavelti workshops…”. This 5.29 carat ruby pendant is offered in November 2020.

Toni Cavelti embraced modern forms and modern materials. In 1967, a new gem was found in Tanzania. Named after its source, Tanzanite quickly became a prominent and highly desired gem. Competing with fine sapphires for beauty, tanzanite can be a rich and vibrant gem. It is only to be expected that Cavelti would choose the finest examples. In the Important Jewels Auction, November 2020, a pair of earrings, a bracelet and a pendant feature exquisite tanzanites. These jewels are also featured in the Max Wyman book.

Very fine tanzanite, weighing approximately 19.40 carats, in an expertly crafted pendant. Featured in the Max Wyman Toni Cavelti book, and offered in the Important Jewels Auction November 2020

Diamonds are a mainstay in the world of jewels. Toni Cavelti chose his diamonds with great care. There is a fine suite of diamond jewels in featured in Toni Cavelti, A Jeweller’s Life. This suite is a highlight of the November 2020 auction.

A diamond brooch and necklace, offered in the November 2020 auction. There are matching earrings, and ring also offered in the auction. All are all also featured in Toni Cavelti, A Jeweller’s Life.

Cavelti jewels are often offered in Dupuis Auctions, and we are always proud to feature them. It a rare and special opportunity to include this very important collection of Cavelti Jewels in a single auction.

The Case for Unique Jewels

Granite pyramid with a treasure hidden within

When we receive an important jewel, we think of it in an important box. The joy of seeing the telltale blue of Tiffany (Pantone colour 1837, the year that Tiffany was founded), the frisson of pleasure on unwrapping the distinctive rich red of a Cartier box.

We imagine the exquisite jewel box of European Nobility. The lid squeaking open to reveal great treasures hidden within.

Even the great sea chests of ancient buccaneers on the wild high seas, bound by strong strapping, tempt us to peek inside to discover the treasures stowed inside

In the Dupuis Important Jewels Auction, November 17th, 2019, we are offering a number of important jewels by jewellery artist Andrew Jordan. Three of these jewels are housed in fascinating and beautifully made boxes that are absolutely unique.

The Artist

Andrew Jordan arrived in Canada as a refugee from Romania when he was a teenager. He completed a master’s degree on the international diamond business, and then entered the diamond industry. He has focused on design and art since then.

The Case For Cases

While Jordan focused on jewels, he felt that an important jewel should have its own important case. The cases were designed by Andrew Jordan, and he collaborated with highly skilled craftspeople and artists to create the jewel boxes.

The Pyramid

https://bit.ly/2KjKOvQ

Granite pyramid
The pyramid opening
The treasure within

One of the boxes, made by stone artist Thomas McPhee, is a pyramid of black granite with a top that swivels to reveal a gold opening into which drops a long chain set with 365 yellow diamonds (for the 365 days of the year) and with a 5 carat diamond in a gold pyramid form at the base. The ancient Egyptian pyramids are famed for having secret compartments inside. This granite pyramid houses a major treasure.

The Tree of Life

https://bit.ly/34WyPfp

Rhodonite box
The rhodonite box, open
The tree of life

Another box houses a pendant in the geometric form of a tree-of-life. The tree-of-life is an ancient symbol from ancient times, and is represented in another familiar form of the “paisley” boteh form from eastern folklore. The tree-of-life pendant fits snugly into a box of the bright pink gem, rhodonite, situated on a set of bronze legs, and that closes to form a handsome ornament.

The “Donut”

https://bit.ly/2QhIB7Y

The steel box, closed

One necklace features six uncut octahedral diamond weighing over 17 carats in total, and hanging below a handmade platinum and gold fancy chain with four round diamonds of over a carat, and embellished with pink and golden yellow diamonds.

The steel “donut”, open
The central diamonds in the steel box

Any of these jewels would be a welcome addition to the jewellery wardrobe of a discerning collector, and the boxes are all fascinating works of art in themselves.

Erté Art Deco Designer

Erté

Lot 336 June 2018

Erté designed Egyptian inspired wing earrings and necklace, offered at auction June 2018

Erté is a name central to the world of design and closely associated with the height of Art Deco style. This long lived artist became prominent in the 1920s, and held influence over the world of fashion for most of the 20th Century.

Born In Russia

Born in Russia in 1892, a quarter century before the Russian revolution, Romain de Tirtoff was an internationally renowned designer who moved to France in 1912. He adopted a name based on his initials “R T” creating the world famous moniker Erté.

Art Deco

He quickly established himself as a fashion designer and illustrator. Erté was in the perfect place and time and had the sense of style, design, and flair to perfectly fit with the Art Deco movement that shook the world in 1925, and for the following decades.

His fashion designs were central in the Art Deco period of the 1920s and 1930s. The entire world of fashion was enraptured by the inspired designs of the flamboyant Erté.

Erté signature

The famous Erté signature from lot 336 Egyptian inspired necklace and earrings offered in June 2018

World Recognition

Erté designed for magazines, and fashion houses, he created posters and created theatre sets and costumes. His work was everywhere. His designs are absolutely identifiable. He had a flair for the highest of style, his designs flowing with eye-catching forms and colours.

He never stopped designing. Thus generation after generation was drawn to his unique style. Art deco has never gone out of fashion, and this period was his strongest influence. The distinctive geometry of Art Deco brings a beauty to his designs, and his flair for the dramatic adds a unique element to his forms.

Thus his magazine covers and posters are instantly identifiable. Fashion designers set out to copy and reproduce the unique style.

Ornaments in our houses were designed by, or at least influenced by Erté. His designs, sculptures and posters remain highly collectible.

He was a design style unto himself. However, like all designers, he was, in turn, influenced by what was going on in the world around him.

After he moved to Paris, the tomb of the ancient Egyptian child-king Tutenkhamun was uncovered in 1922, and in the couple of years following, the extraordinary treasures of King Tutenkhamun came to light. The timing was perfect. Thus, the amazing ancient Egyptian treasures were in the public consciousness. Art Deco designers were heavily influenced by the geometry of ancient Egyptian design. back in the 1920s Art Deco jewels features images of pyramids and the Sphinx in Egypt.

Lot 336, June 2018

Erté Egyptian theme earrings offered as part of Lot 336, June 2018

Erté Jewels

His influence extended to the worlds of fashion, printing, theatre, and jewellery. Living for 98 years, Erté passed away in 1990, yet he remained active in design to the end of his long life. He created this this Egyptian inspired jewel set in the 1980s.

 

Lot 336, June 2018

Erté Egyptian theme earrings offered as part of lot 336 in June 2018

ABC of Jewellers

ABC of Jewellers

Here we present an ABC of jewellers whose work has been offered at auction at Dupuis:

Around the world and around the alphabet, Dupuis Fine Jewellery Auctioneers has offered jewels to bidders from East to West, and from North to South.

We have bidders around the world, and our auctions also have offered jewels from jewellers and designers around the world, and covering nearly the whole alphabet.

Asprey

Asprey, historic jeweller in London, England, holder of many Royal warrants and recipient of Royal commissions through most of the history of Asprey:

249 Spring 2013

Asprey: Rose brooch, lot 249, Spring 2013

Buccellati

Buccellati, Italian jeweller, famous for exquisite textures in precious metals. Unmatched in attention to surface finish on jewels:

Buccellati: Citrine and diamond ring, Lot 376, Spring 2017

Cartier

Cartier, Paris based, and known around the world, jeweller to royalty, stars, and lovers of innovative design:

Cartier: Limited edition wristwatch, “le Cirque Animalier du Cartier Tigre”, Lot 384, Spring 2017

David Webb

David Webb is New York based, and is famous for natural forms including whimsical animals, and is a a favourite of the Stars:

Lot 51, Spring 2016

David Webb: Diamond earrings, Lot 51, Spring 2016

Elsa Peretti

Elsa Peretti, important Tiffany designer, famous for simple and voluptuous forms and textures:

Elsa Peretti: Delicate and supple chain mesh scarf, Lot 16, Spring 2017

Friedrich

Friedrich, based in Frankfurt Germany, is known for attention to detail, and precise work:

Friedrich: Fine ruby and diamond bracelet, Lot 301, Spring 2017

Garrard

Garrard, based in London, England, is famous for centuries of service to the British Royal Family, and for the finest in design and gems for collectors around the world:

Garrard: Sapphire and diamond ring, Lot 21, Fall 2013

Harry Winston

Some of the most important jewels of the world have passed through the doors of New York Based Harry Winston, including the world Famous Hope Diamond:

Lot 326, Fall 2012

Harry Winston, emerald and diamond brooch, Lot 326, Fall 2012

International Watch Company

International Watch Company was established in 1868, the Swiss watch company has a great reputation for fine timepieces:

IWC Lot 632, Spring 2014

International Watch Company, Pocket watch, Lot 632, Spring 2014

JAR (Joel Rosenthal)

JAR is Paris based. The designer is famed for innovative and unusual use of colours, and is a favourite of the famous:

Lot 344, Fall 2015

JAR earrings, Lot 344, Fall 2015

Kutchinsky

Kutchinsky was established over a century ago in London, England, Famous for fine and delicate work.

Lot 155, Spring 2017

Kutchinsky, buckle bracelet, Lot 155, Spring 2017

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton, famed for luggage and accessories, is also known for jewels, particularly ones that may clip on to luggage.

Lot 7, Spring 2017

Louis Vuitton, Eiffel Tower charm, Lot 7, Spring 2017

Marina B

Marina B, known for creative use of colour and coloured gems, and collected by “A Listers” worldwide.

Lot 169, Spring 2017

Marina B earrings, carnelian and rutilated quartz, Lot 169, Spring 2017

Nardi

Nardi, the Venice based jeweller, is famous for jewels honouring the renowned aristocratic general who helped to protect the city of Venice, and is immortalized in Shakespeare’s Othello.

Lot 2, Fall 2016

Nardi brooch featuring the famed general revered for preserving Venice at war. Lot 2, Fall 2016

Oscar Heyman

Oscar Heyman, the New York based jeweller produces jewels of delicate detail, and unstinting finish. Commonly using geometric forms to wonderful effect.

Lot 247, Spring 2013

Oscar Heyman bracelet with emeralds and diamonds. Lot 247, Spring 2013

Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe: “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.” The company slogan says it all, timepieces of enduring quality and reliability.

Lot 170, Spring 2017

Patek Philippe wristwatch with classic blue dial. Lot 170, Spring 2017

Q (Quartz)

As far as we recall, Dupuis has not offered any jewels made by a jeweller whose name starts with “Q”. We will look at quartz. Found in many colours and textures, amethyst is purple, citrine is yellow, and rock crystal is clear and colourless, sometimes frosted in texture.

Lot 62, Spring 2017

Quartz, rock crystal and amethyst orchid, Lot 62, Spring 2017

Rolex

Rolex watches are among the best known and most widely recognized in the world. Very strong at auction, and always in demand, Rolex is preeminent in the watch world.

Lot 171, Spring 2017

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust with a “Thunderbird” bezel. Lot 171, Spring 2017

Sterlé

Sterlé was a Paris based jeweller, established in the 1930s, and boasting a client list of royalty and stars. Jewels by Sterlé are noted for their embracing of forms from nature.

Lot 157, Fall 2013

Sterlé brooch in a feather form with gold and diamonds. Lot 157, Spring 2017

Tiffany & Co

Tiffany & Co was established in New York, in the year 1837. Continues to meet the needs of jewellery connoisseurs around the world.

Lot 389, Spring 2017

Tiffany & Co rubellite and diamond bracelet, Lot 389, Spring 2017

Universal Geneve

Universal Geneve, maker of fine timepieces, including the Golden Shadow, the thinnest automatic wristwatch of its time. Known for stylish precious jewel timepieces.

Lot 453, Spring 2014

Universal Geneve gold and diamond wristwatch, Lot 453, Spring 2014

Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels, one of the most sought-after names at auction, world-wide. Based in Paris, and represented around the world, their jewels are classic and timeless, and have adorned many royals.

Lot 400, Spring 2017

Van Cleef & Arpels ring, 6.47 carats, Lot 400, Spring 2017

Walton & Co

Walton & Co, United States based, their jewels represent the choice elements of the Arts and Crafts movement, and incorporate natural forms into delicate jewels.

Lot 189, Spring 2017

Walton & Co brooch with pink topaz, Lot 189, Spring 2017

X

We can state that as far as we recall, Dupuis has not offered jewels made by jewellers whose name starts with “X”. We have never offered Xylophones, and only occasionally use X-rays to test pearls.

Yurman

David Yurman is famed for jewels that feature twist form wires, often in sterling silver,  decorated with coloured gemstones, often with gold accents.

Lot 52, Summer 2016

David Yurman silver and gold bracelet with black onyx, Lot 52, Summer 2016

Zolotas

Zolotas, based in Athens, Greece, and established in 1895, Zolotas embraces a combination of ancient influences with modern style.

Lot 191, Spring 2015

Zolotas, brooch with gem flowers, Lot 191, Spring 2015

Antique Jewels: 19th Century

ANTIQUE JEWELS:

VICTORIAN

404

Late Victorian Natural Pearl and Diamond Pendant/Brooch, Lot 404 in the Dupuis Fall 2016 Important jewels Auction

Antique jewels have a story. Sometimes we aren’t told what the story is. We can, however, discover the tale by reading the secrets of the jewel.

History is a moment in time. In antique jewels, these moments are revealed by examining gems, design styles, themes, and metals. Also, owners can help by providing anecdotes, reminiscences, pictures, or documents.

The years from 1800 to 1899 are an important period in history. Pivotally, the industrial revolution changes the way people live, work, travel, and build the things of daily life.

512

Antique Victorian Hardstone Cameo and 14K Gold Brooch, Lot 512 in the Dupuis Fall 2016 Important Jewels Auction

There is a growing middle class. People are upwardly mobile, with spare spending money. Concentrations of population and wealth in cities creates a growing artist class. Hence there are more decorative items produced and more people using them.

QUEEN VICTORIA

Lot 324 Spring 2017

Victorian brooch by Carlo Giuliano, offered in Dupuis Spring 2017 Important Jewels Auction, Lot 324

Britain’s Queen Victoria is the ruler of the British Empire. At the time, the British rule over a huge part of the world. Victoria reigned from 1837 to 1901. We often call this the Victorian period. Her children marry into many other European royal families. World change in her time is huge.

PHOTOGRAPHY

Victoria is one of the first world leaders to be photographed. It’s the origin of the paparazzi. Every time Queen Victoria goes out, the cameras are also out. Cameras are large and unwieldy in their early days, but photography brings big change. Thus, we all see photos of Victoria and her jewels.

Once upon a time, antique jewels were the latest thing. Now antique jewels are unique wearable works of art. It’s rare to find two identical Victorian jewels. We’re all fascinated by these beautiful and unique works of art.

Lot 97, spring 2017 www.dupuis.ca

Victorian pocket watch, offered in the Dupuis Spring 2017 Important Jewels Auction, Lot 97

In the Victorian Age, our time is more effectively used. More people carry a watch, there are more people with more leisure time. We see more and more information about the world outside of our borders. These borders are both geographic and historic.

Historically, we look at ourselves in our own back yards. The Victorian middle class saw pictures of interesting far-away places. Archaeologists all over Europe, Egypt, and further afield bring ancient art of great beauty to light.

Collectors become obsessed with these artifacts. Therefore, artists begin to explore work of the ancient world. The result is remarkable jewels of jewellers such as Castellani and Giuliano.

The archaeological revival work of these jewellers creates a buzz at auction. These antique jewels are exceptional, inspired by the most beautiful and enduring art of the ancient world.

Lot 327 Spring 2017

Antique hair ornament by Castellani. (One is in the collection of the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum, Smithsonian Institution, New York). Offered in the Dupuis Spring 2017 Important Jewels Auction, Lot 327

The work of Castellani & Giuliano is explored in another post.

Egyptian influences

 Egyptian Influences

110

Egyptian faience amulet built in to a Victorian brooch. Lot 110 in the Dupuis Fall 2016 Important Jewels Auction

Did you know that the world has been fascinated with the world of ancient Egypt since it was not ancient? Every time someone uncovers a tomb or grave in ancient Egypt, we see Egyptian influences flowing in to the art, architecture, and jewels of the modern world.

Pre Tutankhamun

Before the tomb of Tutankhamun was uncovered, tourists, archaeologists, and grave robbers visited the Valley of the Kings, and explored the Great Pyramids, the Sphinx, the tomb of Ramses and all the important sites of ancient Egypt. Exploration uncovered tombs and artifacts regularly.

Sometimes whole tombs were discovered, and sometimes small decorative artifacts were found. Both architectural style and decorative elements found their way around the world.

Nineteenth century explorers and travellers returned to show what they had found in Egypt. Often collected or purchased artifacts were incorporated into decoration and jewellery.

After Tutankhamun

Sometimes there were blends of styles and influences. We see elements from many cultures, styles and geographies influencing each other, more and more as travel and communication became easier in the 19th century.

After the tomb of Tutankhamun was re-discovered in 1922, the world sat up and paid attention, and the Egyptian influences became even stronger.

363

Art Deco brooch, Circa 1930, with obvious Egyptian influences after the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb, Lot 363, in the Dupuis Fall 2016 Important Jewels Auction