Discover the Value of your Jewels

Category: Victorian

Antique Jewels: Moving Stories, Histories, Great Beauty

Antique Amethyst and Diamond Earrings Late 19th Century, Russian
sold 2019, $36,000

The word “antique” usually refers to items that are at least one hundred years old.

Obviously, based on the definition, “antique” means that with each year’s passing, more recent items fit into that description. When Dupuis Fine Jewellery Auctioneers was founded by Ron Dupuis, a 100 year old “antique” jewel had to date from 1886 (when Britain’s Queen Victoria still had another 15 years left on the throne) or earlier. Today, an antique could date from the 1920s. In a few years, Art Deco items can begin to be classified as antique.

Antique diamond brooch pendant
Antique Diamond, Enamel.Silver and Gold Brooch, Circa 1880, sold November 2021, $36,000

We adore jewels because they are lovely little treasures exuding beauty in design, craft, gems, and style. Jewels are also wonderful accessories, and tell a personal tale. An antique jewel has had so much time to build its story.

Antique Diamond, Enamel and Gold Brooch, by Faberge, Circa 1895, sold November 2021, $2,000

For an antique, the tale it tells can be so poignant. Imagine a brooch that was worn by a bride at her wedding in 2000, at the beginning of a new century, an exciting future ahead, and the same brooch was worn by her mother at her wedding, her grandmother, and her great grandmother, all at their weddings. The stories that brooch could tell…

Antique Natural Pearl, Diamond, silver and Gold Brooch, Circa 1860, sold November 2021, $17,000

Sometimes a jewel tells its own tale out loud. There may be stamps and marks that reveal information. A hallmark might be tracked to a particular country, city, date, and maker. These may be quite comprehensive, as seen in a British Hallmark, featuring a series of stamps that will provide all of this. Other stamps may be less detailed, but still provide some hints to a jewel’s story. A stamp for 15K gold, for example on a British gold jewel indicates that the jewel can only date from 1854-1932, not before and not after.

Antique Pearl, Diamond, Platinum and Gold Ring, sold November 2021 $15,000

Mourning

Sometimes the engraving of a personal message will help a jewel to convey its message. The sad story of a family which lost a member, a jewel that commemorates the person, usually referred to a memorial jewellery.

Memorial Ring with Diamonds and Black Enamel on Gold, sold February 2021, $900

Messages

Perhaps a happy occasion might be remembered, a jewel that commemorates an important event, such as the birth of a grandchild is common. In the nineteenth Century, brooches were commonly used to convey messages. Sometimes, gemstones were used to spell out a message: The initial letters of Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby, and Diamond spelled out the word “REGARD” in rings and pendants

REGARD (Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby, Diamond) Pendant offered in February 2022

Jewels may tell the story of a goal achieved, a threshold passed. The jewel itself may be a commemoration, but sometimes, more often in men’s rather than in women’s jewels, the jewel may clearly spell out the reason for the celebration. There is not nearly so much man’s jewellery as women’s jewellery. Perhaps because some shirt studs, cufflinks, and a pocket watch were just about all that grandfather had by way of jewels, they are often very precious in a family. A pocket watch was often a special presentation gift, and is frequently engraved with a monogram, and sometimes with a note to carry the story into the future: “On your graduation”, “to celebrate 25 years of service”, “on our golden wedding anniversary”, and so on.

25th Anniversary Antique Diamond, Ruby, Silver and Gold Brooch, by Faberge, sold June 2020 $9,500
Engraved Date on the Reverse of the Antique Diamond, Ruby, Silver and Gold Brooch, by Faberge

When an antique jewel is purchased at auction, it begins a new branch of its journey. The story never ends, it just receives new chapters with each new owner.

An Antique Sapphire, Seed Pearl, Enamel and Gold Brooch, sold November 2021, $3,000

Castellani and Giuliano

Castellani and Giuliano

Lot 323, Spring 2017

Giuliano Brooch (Carlo and Arthur Giuliano), Diamond, Sapphire, and Chrysoprase, Lot 323, offered in the Spring 2017 Important Jewels Auction

The nineteenth Century is a time of change. Industry creates a growing middle class. Archaeology is invented, and all around the Mediterranean, sites reveal beautiful decorative items of the ancient world. Artifacts of ancient Greece, Egypt, and the Italian peninsula provide inspiration. Designers look fondly back on the ancient world. Castellani and Giuliano are two jewellers drawing on this inspiration, and become two of the most important names in jewellery history.

Castellani

Fortunato Pio Castellani was a collector and dealer in artifacts of the ancient world. Founding a business in Rome in 1814, Castellani is one of the first dealers to bring ancient decorative items of beauty to 19th century customers.

Lot 327 dupuis.ca Spring 2017

Castellani Caduceus Hairpin, Circa 1875, Lot 327 offered in the Spring 2017 Important Jewels Auction

Castellani’s believed the ancient world produced the most beautiful items. He also felt the forgotten styles and techniques of our ancestors should be resurrected. The delicacy of hand made and custom ornamented artifacts of the ancient world would benefit connoisseurs and collectors.

The house of Castellani, under Fortunato’s sons, Alessandro and Augusto, thrived in Rome. They began creating fine jewels inspired by jewels of the ancient world. The company gained a reputation for being the go-to place for interesting and beautiful interpretations of ancient design in a modern (nineteenth Century) world.

Symbols found in ancient art, mythological creatures, ancient wine jugs, (for example, a ram, and amphora, seen in the brooch, below), and religious images are among the forms commonly found in Castellani jewels. A caduceus, seen in the hairpin, above, was an ancient Greek and also ancient Egyptian symbol of messengers (bringers of good news), only more recently has the symbol come to represent the medical profession. The jewels often contain mixed images drawn from different places in ancient history.

Archaeology

Lot 326 www.dupuis.ca Spring 2017

Castellani brooch, Circa 1880s, a mythical ram’s head with an amphora, Lot 326, offered in the Spring 2017 Important Jewels Auction

The Castellani family often visited archaeological sites. They examined ancient jewels as they were excavated. With access to these jewels, the family became fascinated by metal-working techniques that had been lost in the mists of time.

Delicate filigree and texturing with tiny grains of gold (“granulation”) were decorative elements that the Castellani family really wanted to revive. After decades of work, they re-discovered these methods and produced incredible jewels. As a result, the elements of ancient design were incorporated into highly desirable jewels which appealed to Europe’s wealthiest classes.

Worldwide Reputation

By the late 1850s, travellers to Italy and Rome absolutely had to make a stop at Castellani’s to make a purchase of their famous “revival” jewels. These treasures were so popular that Castellani opened stores in Paris and London.

Giuliano

Lot 325, Spring 2017

Giuliano pendant on a Tiffany & Co chain, with Garnets, Circa 1890, Lot 325, offered in Spring 2017 Important Jewels Auction

The London office was opened by Castellani protege Carlo Giuliano. Giuliano became fascinated by the jewels of the Renaissance. Thus, he shifted his focus from ancient to Renaissance jewels of the 1500’s. The jewels of Giuliano rarely focused on expensive gemstones, the gems were seen as an integral part of the design. The pendant, above, is a perfect representation of this focus.

The jewels of the ancient world had very little enamel, but there was widespread use of enamel in the Renaissance. The Castellanis used stone inlay and mosaic in their ancient revival jewels. Giuliano, however, worked widely with delicate enamels.

Giuliano opened his own business in London, and immediately developed a reputation for extraordinary Renaissance revival jewels. A trademark of work by Giuliano was very delicate enamel work. Of great note is the unique combination of black detail on white enamel, or white on black. Below, the brooch shows the delicate enamel work of Giuliano.

Lot 322 Spring 2017

Giuliano Brooch (Carlo and Arthur Giuliano) garnets and enamel, Circa 1900, Lot 322, offered in the Spring 2017 Important Jewels Auction

Giuliano and Castellani jewels are known for being decorated on the back. Most jewellers don’t bother with making the back of jewels pretty. Both Castellani and Giuliano looked at the complete beauty of the entire jewel. The pleasure of a beautiful reverse side of a jewel provides joy to the wearer each time they put it on and take it off.

While Castellani and Giuliano made what are called Archaeological and Renaissance Revival jewels, they were inspired by, but not direct copies of designs and styles from bygone eras. Cameos, similar to the one below, are often seen in ancient Roman jewels, but this cameo is framed by classic Giuliano black and white enamel.

Lot 324, Spring 2017

Giuliano Cameo Pendant, Lot 324, offered in the Spring 2017 Important Jewels Auction

Castellani and Giuliano are two of the most important names in the history of jewellery. These two names generate real excitement among collectors. At Dupuis, we are very pleased to have the opportunity to offer six important jewels from these two houses in a single auction.

Antique Jewels: 19th Century

ANTIQUE JEWELS:

VICTORIAN

404

Late Victorian Natural Pearl and Diamond Pendant/Brooch, Lot 404 in the Dupuis Fall 2016 Important jewels Auction

Antique jewels have a story. Sometimes we aren’t told what the story is. We can, however, discover the tale by reading the secrets of the jewel.

History is a moment in time. In antique jewels, these moments are revealed by examining gems, design styles, themes, and metals. Also, owners can help by providing anecdotes, reminiscences, pictures, or documents.

The years from 1800 to 1899 are an important period in history. Pivotally, the industrial revolution changes the way people live, work, travel, and build the things of daily life.

512

Antique Victorian Hardstone Cameo and 14K Gold Brooch, Lot 512 in the Dupuis Fall 2016 Important Jewels Auction

There is a growing middle class. People are upwardly mobile, with spare spending money. Concentrations of population and wealth in cities creates a growing artist class. Hence there are more decorative items produced and more people using them.

QUEEN VICTORIA

Lot 324 Spring 2017

Victorian brooch by Carlo Giuliano, offered in Dupuis Spring 2017 Important Jewels Auction, Lot 324

Britain’s Queen Victoria is the ruler of the British Empire. At the time, the British rule over a huge part of the world. Victoria reigned from 1837 to 1901. We often call this the Victorian period. Her children marry into many other European royal families. World change in her time is huge.

PHOTOGRAPHY

Victoria is one of the first world leaders to be photographed. It’s the origin of the paparazzi. Every time Queen Victoria goes out, the cameras are also out. Cameras are large and unwieldy in their early days, but photography brings big change. Thus, we all see photos of Victoria and her jewels.

Once upon a time, antique jewels were the latest thing. Now antique jewels are unique wearable works of art. It’s rare to find two identical Victorian jewels. We’re all fascinated by these beautiful and unique works of art.

Lot 97, spring 2017 www.dupuis.ca

Victorian pocket watch, offered in the Dupuis Spring 2017 Important Jewels Auction, Lot 97

In the Victorian Age, our time is more effectively used. More people carry a watch, there are more people with more leisure time. We see more and more information about the world outside of our borders. These borders are both geographic and historic.

Historically, we look at ourselves in our own back yards. The Victorian middle class saw pictures of interesting far-away places. Archaeologists all over Europe, Egypt, and further afield bring ancient art of great beauty to light.

Collectors become obsessed with these artifacts. Therefore, artists begin to explore work of the ancient world. The result is remarkable jewels of jewellers such as Castellani and Giuliano.

The archaeological revival work of these jewellers creates a buzz at auction. These antique jewels are exceptional, inspired by the most beautiful and enduring art of the ancient world.

Lot 327 Spring 2017

Antique hair ornament by Castellani. (One is in the collection of the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum, Smithsonian Institution, New York). Offered in the Dupuis Spring 2017 Important Jewels Auction, Lot 327

The work of Castellani & Giuliano is explored in another post.

Egyptian influences

 Egyptian Influences

110

Egyptian faience amulet built in to a Victorian brooch. Lot 110 in the Dupuis Fall 2016 Important Jewels Auction

Did you know that the world has been fascinated with the world of ancient Egypt since it was not ancient? Every time someone uncovers a tomb or grave in ancient Egypt, we see Egyptian influences flowing in to the art, architecture, and jewels of the modern world.

Pre Tutankhamun

Before the tomb of Tutankhamun was uncovered, tourists, archaeologists, and grave robbers visited the Valley of the Kings, and explored the Great Pyramids, the Sphinx, the tomb of Ramses and all the important sites of ancient Egypt. Exploration uncovered tombs and artifacts regularly.

Sometimes whole tombs were discovered, and sometimes small decorative artifacts were found. Both architectural style and decorative elements found their way around the world.

Nineteenth century explorers and travellers returned to show what they had found in Egypt. Often collected or purchased artifacts were incorporated into decoration and jewellery.

After Tutankhamun

Sometimes there were blends of styles and influences. We see elements from many cultures, styles and geographies influencing each other, more and more as travel and communication became easier in the 19th century.

After the tomb of Tutankhamun was re-discovered in 1922, the world sat up and paid attention, and the Egyptian influences became even stronger.

363

Art Deco brooch, Circa 1930, with obvious Egyptian influences after the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb, Lot 363, in the Dupuis Fall 2016 Important Jewels Auction

 

 

Did You Know? Royal Provenance

Royal Provenance

This antique brooch, Circa 1850, is accompanied by a notarized letter indicating that it is from the estate of His Imperial Highness, Archduke of Austria, Luis Salvador of Habsburg-Lorraine and Borbon. Royal Provenance makes everything more interesting.

325

Lot 325, in the Dupuis Fall 2016 Important Jewels Auction

It is a beautiful emerald in a lovely brooch with an interesting story. We can’t verify it ourselves, but the background certainly makes this beautiful jewel even more interesting.

Who doesn’t want to be able to tell the story of an Imperial personage and imagine the lifestyle that would have accompanied such a jewel? What tales it could tell.

Tiaras and crowns

Conch pearl and diamond tiara

Offered in Spring 2015 Dupuis Fine Jewels Auction

Tiara: A Jeweller’s Crowning Achievement

Exceptional antique diamond tiara

Antique with Diamonds, Offered at Dupuis Spring 2008 Auction, Sold for $230,000

Once in a rare while, a tiara becomes available to the auction bidder. Tiaras are the essence of elegance, and always turn a gathering into an event. They convert a dance into a ball, the downtrodden Cinderella into Prince Charming’s sweetheart (snow-white horses, a golden carriage and glass slippers help, too).

Moon stone tiara, Circa 1900

Antique, With Moonstones, Sold in the Dupuis Fall 2011 Jewels Auction

A tiara is a crown worn high on the head, and usually has a semi-circular shape. Tiaras have been worn, in one form or another, for thousands of years, but the 19th century produced some of the most beautiful and ornate of these jewels. The finest tiaras are decorated with gems mounted in precious metal.

Diamond Flower tiara

Victorian Flower Form with  Diamonds, Sold in the Dupuis Spring 2005 Jewels Auction

Royal heads around the world are regularly adorned with tiaras for special events and public appearances. Similarly, women with a complete and elegant jewellery wardrobe have a tiara for special occasions. However, even royalty may not wear a tiara every day, so we find it helpful to have a tiara that can be converted to other uses.

Small sapphire and diamond head top tiara

Set with Sapphire and Diamonds, Sold in the Dupuis Spring 2012 Auction

Many exquisite Victorian tiaras were convertible to necklace use, or could be taken apart to become earrings, bracelets, brooches, pendants (with additional fittings), greatly expanding their function in the owner’s jewel collection. Originally, these jewels would have been mounted in fitted boxes, sadly these boxes are often lost to history.

Modern reproduction ruby, diamond and sapphire tiara

Ruby, Sapphire and Diamond Tiara, Sold in the Dupuis January 2008 Jewels Auction

A charming use of a convertible tiara is to wear it on your head at a dinner, and wear the same jewel as a necklace at the dance afterwards. It won’t fall off while you’re dancing.

The tiara in the Dupuis Spring 2015 auction is adorned with diamonds and pearls, and it features a very rare collection of beautiful pink conch pearls. With the original accompanying diamond-mounted attachment, it easily converts to an elegant and stunning necklace. The set is offered with the original fitted box.

If there is a tiara around, everyone wants to try it on. I certainly do.

IMG_2636 duncan tries on a tiara

Everyone wants to wear one