Discover the Value of your Jewels

Category: Antique Jewellery (Page 2 of 2)

Natural Pearls, rare beauties of the natural world, and how we identify them

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Natural pearl necklace: Lot 261 in Dupuis Spring 2014 Auction, sold for $60,000 http://bit.ly/DUPUIS-LOT-261

Natural pearls are a very rare thing. They have grown by accident, and are the product of incredible good fortune. Once upon a time people would dive, time after time, into the ocean, searching for the one elusive “oyster” that was bearing the extraordinary gift of a pearl. These natural pearls are very rare, and highly desired today.

The translucency of the pearl material called “nacre” gives natural pearls a radiance that is unlike anything else. This translucency allows light to penetrate the natural pearl and produces reflection of light and iridescence, often in a rainbow of colours, sometimes referred to as “orient” or “overtones”.

What gives value to a pearl is its size, the smoothness of its surface, the roundness of its shape, its body colour, the colours of the “overtones” seen in each, and the matching of the pearls if there are more than one.

One of the ways that we distinguish natural pearls from cultured pearls is that cultured pearls usually have a bead of mother of pearl inside, and a layer of the pearl material called nacre laid on by the mollusc, or “oyster” on the outside, and natural pearls are layers of nacre all the way to the centre, with no bead.

We can X-ray pearls to detect a bead, or sometimes we can look down the drill hole to detect a bead. In natural pearls we often see layer after layer all the way to the centre of the pearl. Following are some images of the layered structure seen in some of the natural pearls in the necklace shown above.

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Looking down the drill hole of a natural pearl

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The layered structure seen down the drill hole in a natural pearl

A Brooch With Greatness

Antique Enamel and Diamond Lapel Locket: Lot 264, Spring 2014 sale

Antique Enamel and Diamond Lapel Locket: Lot 264, Spring 2014 sale

A brooch is something that makes a statement to the world. It’s often worn on a coat, blazer or jacket, it isn’t limited to a time of day or a type of clothing. Women and men wear brooches equally.

The brooch has undergone many changes and variations, from a clip to secure clothes, to a badge of rank for soldiers, and it still serves those purposes, even if only symbolically.

We wear brooches, but only to to symbolically secure our clothes. The drapery of the ancient world may have been secured with a pin or brooch, while the traditional dress clips of the 1930’s and 1940’s were worn symbolically representing such things, but were purely decorative. These days dress clips, which generally come in pairs, are worn with a special fitting that allows them to be joined to form a larger single brooch.

Three Blue Zircon Jewels, Including Dress Clips: Lot 228 Spring 2014 sale

Three Blue Zircon Jewels, Including Dress Clips: Lot 228 Spring 2014 sale

Historically, when brooches weren’t used to secure clothing, they were used to represent a rank in society or membership in an organization. In modern jewellery, a brooch may be work to represent membership in a service club, or years of dedication, perhaps to a job or a relationship. More often than not, however, these days, a brooch is a personal reward, purchased for one’s own enjoyment “because I’ve earned it”.

Madeleine Albright, former secretary of State of the United States, is a famous brooch collector and wearer. Her collection of brooches is extensive, and she is rarely seen without a brooch. Albright has written a book Read My Pins, about her collection of brooches.

Brooches can address many moods, and state many things about the wearer. In a recent auction we featured a beautifully carved tortoiseshell brooch that was purely fun, and a joy to wear.

Antique Tortoiseshell Putto Brooch: Lot 486, spring 2013

Antique Tortoiseshell Putto Brooch: Lot 486, spring 2013

Often a brooch may feature a collection of gems, and is perfect as a spring flower garland.

Multi Gem and Gold Floral Brooch: Lot 283, Spring 2014 sale

Multi Gem and Gold Floral Brooch: Lot 283, Spring 2014 sale

A crescent is a classic shape of brooch, widely used in the 19th Century, it harkens to the “mysterious” East, at a time when the world was getting a little smaller. Europeans were  fascinated with the world of Turkey, Persia (now Iran, the world’s most famous source of turquoise), and further afield.

Antique Turquoise and Diamond Crescent Brooch: Lot 173, Spring 2014 sale

Antique Turquoise and Diamond Crescent Brooch: Lot 173, Spring 2014 sale

The diamond brooch can work well in any situation. Diamonds will complement any outfit and any colour. The Spring auction features an impressive collection of diamond brooches, from antiques, through floral sprays, to very modern statement pieces.

The beginning of the Twentieth Century, and the end of the Victorian era saw the lightening of jewellery forms. The jewels of the Belle Epoque were light, lacy, and had an inspiration from the forms of nature. Brooches were very popular at the time, and these styles carry an enduring beauty.

Belle Epoque Pearl and Diamond Brooch (Circa 1910): Lot 258, Spring 2014 sale

Belle Epoque Pearl and Diamond Brooch (Circa 1910): Lot 258, Spring 2014 sale

Art Deco (around 1925-1930) remains a favourite among jewellery collectors and wearers. The style, originated nearly a century ago, remains fresh and stylish today. The geometric forms work well with so much fashion worn today. Men often wear Art deco brooches on their lapels.

Art Deco Diamond and Platinum Bar Brooch: Lot 269, Spring 2014 sale

Art Deco Diamond and Platinum Bar Brooch: Lot 269, Spring 2014 sale

The 1940’s, in the period after the war, there was a desire to wear big jewels, especially after the restraint and restrictions of the previous five years. Retro is the name of the style from this period. Retro Jewels often feature large curves in highly polished gold and rubies (frequently laboratory grown rubies) and diamonds.

Retro Citrine Ruby, Diamond and Gold Brooch: Lot 327, Spring 2014 sale

Retro Citrine Ruby, Diamond and Gold Brooch: Lot 327, Spring 2014 sale

The 1950’s and 1960’s saw a real interest in the brooch. Going out without being appropriately accessorized with a brooch was like going out without shoes. The well dressed woman had a brooch for every occasion. The classic was a diamond brooch, often in a stylized flower form or a floral spray. With the styles of the 1960’s coming so much into vogue, there is a real interest in the appropriate accompanying accessories. In jewellery, there’s no need to settle for reproductions, it’s possible to purchase originals at auction.

Diamond And Platinum Floral Brooch, 1960's: Lot 183, Spring 2014 sale

Diamond And Platinum Floral Brooch, 1960’s: Lot 183, Spring 2014 sale

Brooches are ready to wear, never needs to be sized, and being worn affixed to clothes, brooches are usually in very good condition. Brooches are classic jewels and perfect statements of personal style.

A Pearl is a Pearl, isn’t it?

Belle Epoque Pearl and Pendant: Lot 195, Spring 2014 sale

Belle Epoque Pearl and Pendant: Lot 195, Spring 2014 sale

When we think of a pearl, we tend to think of a round white shiny object that comes from an oyster of some sort.

A pearl may well fit that description, but there are so many variations available, it is quite surprising.

Historically, a pearl is a roundish to randomly shaped gem that has formed accidentally in a shellfish, usually a bivalve. A bivalve is a shell fish (mollusc) that has a two part shell, like an oyster, a clam, or even a quahog.

Hold on… QUAHOG?, what’s that? A quahog (usually pronounced “cohog”) is a shellfish found along the Eastern Coast of North America and particularly around Cape Cod and New Jersey (along the Jersey shore). These clams are an important food source, and which very rarely will produce a lilac colour pearl. Lot 119 in the June 22, 2014 Dupuis sale features one of these rare and unusual pearls, measuring 10.3mm in diameter, and estimated $1,500-$2,500.00 with a diamond on a gold stick pin. The catalogue will be available shortly at www.dupuis.ca

 

Antique Natural Pearl and Coloured Diamond Stickpin with a Quahog Pearl: Lot 119, Spring 2014 sale

Antique Natural Pearl and Coloured Diamond Stickpin with a Quahog Pearl: Lot 119, Spring 2014 sale

We do occasionally find a pearl in a univalve mollusc, too. A univalve is a mollusc that has a one-part shell, like a snail or perhaps a conch, from the Caribbean. Conch pearls are usually pink, and are also very rare and valuable. Lot 660 in the spring sale features a bright pink conch pearl, estimated at $1,000-$1,200

 

Conch Pearl Diamond and Platinum Ring: Lot 660, Spring 2014 sale

Conch Pearl Diamond and Platinum Ring: Lot 660, Spring 2014 sale

With the development of pearl culturing in Japan around 1915, the pearl industry changed forever. What we think of as a pearl today is a cultured pearl.

A cultured pearl is still produced by these natural gem-makers of the sea (or lake or river), but humans help out by placing something inside the molluscs to start the process of pearl growth.

Now we have pearls being cultured in the ocean, with the traditional cultured pearls grown in cooler waters such as those around Japan, the larger South Sea cultured pearls grown in warmer waters and in larger molluscs, black cultured pearls cost famously grown around Tahiti, and many shapes and sizes of cultured pearls grown in the freshwater (or “sweet water”) of lakes and rivers, particularly in China.

Freshwater cultured pearls can grow in very large sizes and in many unusual shapes and colours. The upcoming auction Dupuis will be featuring a few necklaces of large and interesting freshwater cultured pearls. Freshwater cultured pearls make a great statement for a remarkably modest price. Lot 407 in the Spring sale features huge freshwater cultured pearls, and is estimated at $1,400-$1,600.

407407Still, natural pearls remain rare and highly desirable. We really see a lot of interest in natural pearls because they are not replaceable. In the Spring 2014 (June 22) sale there are several notable natural pearl jewels. Among the natural pearls in the sale are one brooch, lot 365, with a notably large, 14.74mm natural pearl, and a necklace, lot 277, with three strands of pearls (including a single cultured pearl).

Natural Pearl Diamond and Platinum Brooch: Lot 365, Spring 2014 sale

Natural Pearl Diamond and Platinum Brooch: Lot 365, Spring 2014 sale

 

Antique Natural Pearl Sapphire and Diamond Necklace: Lot 277 Spring 2014 sale

Antique Natural Pearl Sapphire and Diamond Necklace: Lot 277 Spring 2014 sale

 

Pearls are probably the original gem, because they are ready to use straight out of the shell, and one can imagine an early cave dweller with a broken tooth having enjoyed a meal of oysters and carrying the reward of a beautiful lustrous pearl.

Art Nouveau Pendant at Auction

Art Nouveau Pendant at Auction

Art Nouveau Pendant at Auction

To be offered in the Spring 2014 sale, June 22, this pendant is an elegantly simple jewel. It came to the auction in a fitted box, can you imagine a workshop set up specifically to build boxes that are made to fit individual jewels?

This pendant dates from the time when only natural pearls were available, so it is likely that the pearls are natural. We have not verified them, but they are certainly bright and lustrous.

This Art Nouveau design is symmetrical, with a lyre-like form composed of diamonds in ribbons of silver topped gold.

Dating from before white gold was introduced, and prior to the widespread use of platinum, silver was the white metal of choice for setting diamonds to show them to the best effect.

After a century, the silver has a dark colour, and perhaps shows the diamonds to even better effect. However, even compared to many modern items, it is in very good condition.

Its size and form are perfect for almost any occasion, from casual gatherings to formal affairs.

Jewellery carries a message

Two Antique Gold Memorial Brooches at Dupuis Auctions

Two Antique Gold Memorial Brooches at Dupuis Auctions

These antique jewels are the perfect representation of the dying days of the Victorian Empire. Beautifully made mourning jewels conveyed a message of good taste in fine craftsmanship, and remembered someone who can’t be with the wearer any longer. A poignant memory of an important era, and very wearable in todays fashion environment.

Portrait Cameo

AN ANTIQUE PORTRAIT CAMEO AND GOLD PENDANT/BROOCH, CIRCA 1870

AN ANTIQUE PORTRAIT CAMEO AND GOLD PENDANT/BROOCH, CIRCA 1870

Cameos are small art works often in the form of carved gems. We associate cameos with a white to cream figure on a pink to orange-brown background in the most traditional carved shell cameos. While some of the finest work is in carved shell, historically, agates, chalcedony and other quartz are among favourite media for cameo artists dating back to ancient Egypt.

While these days, cameos are often seen as production line jewels with pointy nosed caricatures of an idealized woman’s head, there are still some exceptional cameo artists working today. Naples is the cameo carving centre of Italy, and some of the workshops have volume carvers working side by side with carvers creating unique one-of-a-kind pieces. It is good to see the art has not been lost.

In the upcoming November 24th Dupuis auction found at www.dupuis.ca there is a most interesting and unique cameo. Lot 201 is a “portrait” cameo. This is a 19th century cameo made as a portrait of an individual, and it is offered with a hand tinted photograph of the gentleman, stated to be George Colyer. Comparing the two images, it is clearly the same man. He has the same curly head, and the same inscrutable look. This is certainly a fascinating antique. For more information, go to: http://bit.ly/17EkKlM

George Colyer Photograph

George Colyer Photograph

Scallop shells in art, including jewellery art

The delicate pendant, lot 187

The delicate pendant, lot 187

The shell, a symbol of birth, features in art, and, of course, jewellery throughout history. The delicate pendant, lot 187 in the November 24th, 2013 auction features a small cherub, or putto, seated on a scallop shell, and playing a flute.  This image of the shell recurs in some of the great artworks of the world,  including that of Piero Della Francesca, Madonna and Child and Saints, with a gathering in the shadow of a large scallop shell, and Botticelli’s Birth of Venus. The pendant is classic, and interestingly, while many cameos are carved from shell, this one is cut from a banded mineral, agate, and it is referred to as a “hardstone cameo”. For more information, go to: http://bit.ly/1augo1y

Piero Della Francesca

Piero Della Francesca

 

Botticelli's Birth of Venus

Botticelli’s Birth of Venus

 

Natural Pearls

AN ANTIQUE NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND BROOCH, CIRCA 1900

AN ANTIQUE NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND BROOCH, CIRCA 1900

Natural pearls are the original gems. Someone, long ago, was eating an oyster and bit on something, rolling in the palm of our ancient ancestor, it was the first gem, ready to wear, produced through the efforts of a little shellfish. The natural pearl is built up layer by layer, season by season, eventually ending up as this little treasure in lot 72 of the upcoming Dupuis Auction November 24, 2013. For more information, go to: http://bit.ly/17dDULJ

 

Natural pearl

Natural pearl

Arts and Crafts Pendant

AN ART NOUVEAU AQUAMARINE AND GOLD HEART PENDANT, CIRCA 1910

AN ART NOUVEAU AQUAMARINE AND GOLD HEART PENDANT, CIRCA 1910

Lot 202 in the upcoming Dupuis auction November 24, 2013. This beautiful hand made pendant, dated 1913, seems to be a blend between Art Nouveau and Arts and Crafts. The centre features a panel with a clear cover on the front, and an engraved back with an inscription commemorating a 25th wedding anniversary. The transparent cover allows for the insertion of a photo or other item, perhaps a swatch of colour to pick up a theme in your wardrobe.

I was curious, and tested the clear cover, and it turns out to be rock crystal quartz. As a gemmologist, I was impressed that the cutter oriented it perfectly to be along an optic axis, so it is in a singly refractive direction, and the photo below would not look fuzzy due to doubling. In a polariscope, it perfectly shows interference colours between crossed polarizing filters, and a bullseye optic figure.

Rock crystal quartz in polariscope

Rock crystal quartz in polariscope

Rock crystal quartz in polariscope

Rock crystal quartz in polariscope

For more information about this pendant, go to: http://bit.ly/17BltGs

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