Discover the Value of your Jewels

Category: Jewellery (Page 2 of 3)

Antique Jewels: 19th Century

ANTIQUE JEWELS:

VICTORIAN

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Late Victorian Natural Pearl and Diamond Pendant/Brooch, Lot 404 in the Dupuis Fall 2016 Important jewels Auction

Antique jewels have a story. Sometimes we aren’t told what the story is. We can, however, discover the tale by reading the secrets of the jewel.

History is a moment in time. In antique jewels, these moments are revealed by examining gems, design styles, themes, and metals. Also, owners can help by providing anecdotes, reminiscences, pictures, or documents.

The years from 1800 to 1899 are an important period in history. Pivotally, the industrial revolution changes the way people live, work, travel, and build the things of daily life.

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Antique Victorian Hardstone Cameo and 14K Gold Brooch, Lot 512 in the Dupuis Fall 2016 Important Jewels Auction

There is a growing middle class. People are upwardly mobile, with spare spending money. Concentrations of population and wealth in cities creates a growing artist class. Hence there are more decorative items produced and more people using them.

QUEEN VICTORIA

Lot 324 Spring 2017

Victorian brooch by Carlo Giuliano, offered in Dupuis Spring 2017 Important Jewels Auction, Lot 324

Britain’s Queen Victoria is the ruler of the British Empire. At the time, the British rule over a huge part of the world. Victoria reigned from 1837 to 1901. We often call this the Victorian period. Her children marry into many other European royal families. World change in her time is huge.

PHOTOGRAPHY

Victoria is one of the first world leaders to be photographed. It’s the origin of the paparazzi. Every time Queen Victoria goes out, the cameras are also out. Cameras are large and unwieldy in their early days, but photography brings big change. Thus, we all see photos of Victoria and her jewels.

Once upon a time, antique jewels were the latest thing. Now antique jewels are unique wearable works of art. It’s rare to find two identical Victorian jewels. We’re all fascinated by these beautiful and unique works of art.

Lot 97, spring 2017 www.dupuis.ca

Victorian pocket watch, offered in the Dupuis Spring 2017 Important Jewels Auction, Lot 97

In the Victorian Age, our time is more effectively used. More people carry a watch, there are more people with more leisure time. We see more and more information about the world outside of our borders. These borders are both geographic and historic.

Historically, we look at ourselves in our own back yards. The Victorian middle class saw pictures of interesting far-away places. Archaeologists all over Europe, Egypt, and further afield bring ancient art of great beauty to light.

Collectors become obsessed with these artifacts. Therefore, artists begin to explore work of the ancient world. The result is remarkable jewels of jewellers such as Castellani and Giuliano.

The archaeological revival work of these jewellers creates a buzz at auction. These antique jewels are exceptional, inspired by the most beautiful and enduring art of the ancient world.

Lot 327 Spring 2017

Antique hair ornament by Castellani. (One is in the collection of the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum, Smithsonian Institution, New York). Offered in the Dupuis Spring 2017 Important Jewels Auction, Lot 327

The work of Castellani & Giuliano is explored in another post.

Egyptian influences

 Egyptian Influences

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Egyptian faience amulet built in to a Victorian brooch. Lot 110 in the Dupuis Fall 2016 Important Jewels Auction

Did you know that the world has been fascinated with the world of ancient Egypt since it was not ancient? Every time someone uncovers a tomb or grave in ancient Egypt, we see Egyptian influences flowing in to the art, architecture, and jewels of the modern world.

Pre Tutankhamun

Before the tomb of Tutankhamun was uncovered, tourists, archaeologists, and grave robbers visited the Valley of the Kings, and explored the Great Pyramids, the Sphinx, the tomb of Ramses and all the important sites of ancient Egypt. Exploration uncovered tombs and artifacts regularly.

Sometimes whole tombs were discovered, and sometimes small decorative artifacts were found. Both architectural style and decorative elements found their way around the world.

Nineteenth century explorers and travellers returned to show what they had found in Egypt. Often collected or purchased artifacts were incorporated into decoration and jewellery.

After Tutankhamun

Sometimes there were blends of styles and influences. We see elements from many cultures, styles and geographies influencing each other, more and more as travel and communication became easier in the 19th century.

After the tomb of Tutankhamun was re-discovered in 1922, the world sat up and paid attention, and the Egyptian influences became even stronger.

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Art Deco brooch, Circa 1930, with obvious Egyptian influences after the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb, Lot 363, in the Dupuis Fall 2016 Important Jewels Auction

 

 

Did You Know? Royal Provenance

Royal Provenance

This antique brooch, Circa 1850, is accompanied by a notarized letter indicating that it is from the estate of His Imperial Highness, Archduke of Austria, Luis Salvador of Habsburg-Lorraine and Borbon. Royal Provenance makes everything more interesting.

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Lot 325, in the Dupuis Fall 2016 Important Jewels Auction

It is a beautiful emerald in a lovely brooch with an interesting story. We can’t verify it ourselves, but the background certainly makes this beautiful jewel even more interesting.

Who doesn’t want to be able to tell the story of an Imperial personage and imagine the lifestyle that would have accompanied such a jewel? What tales it could tell.

Auctions Simplified

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AUCTIONS

Bidding at an auction, or even attending an auction, is an adventure that’s entertaining and fun.

Some people wonder if going to an auction might see them leaving with treasures they didn’t mean to buy. The idea of bidding on something because you winked your eye or coughed does make some people a little nervous. The auctioneer works hard to recognize real bids, so a laugh or a raised eyebrow likely won’t generate a bid.

Dupuis provides you with the opportunity to acquire beautiful jewels through the highly respected centuries-old process of auction.

Buying at auction is simple, you can bid and buy with confidence and comfort. At auction, we aim to provide as much detail and information as possible.

CATALOGUES

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All Dupuis auctions have a catalogue that includes a photo of each jewel, a title, and a  description. Catalogues are issued in print for Dupuis Live auctions, and catalogues are on line and on phone and tablet apps for all auctions.

CONDITION REPORTS

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In many cases, there is an additional “condition report” to make you a well-informed bidder. Condition reports may include measurements, ring sizes, colour descriptions, and other pertinent details.

MORE INFORMATION

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If you need additional details that are not included in catalogues or condition reports, Dupuis is happy to answer to your questions.  We can provide more information or photos.

PREVIEWS

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Previews allow anyone to try on any of the jewels in the auction. Dupuis Auctions features a gallery with all of the jewels displayed in showcases. Dupuis knowledgable staff are on hand to assist. Previews are free, and no bookings are necessary to visit.

AUCTION DAY/WEEK

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Dupuis live auctions are held on one Sunday in November, and one Sunday in June. Online auctions last for one week.

In order to bid at the auction, you do need to register. The process is very simple, there is one form to fill in, it can be done in advance, on line, or on auction day at the venue.

ESTIMATES

Each item in the auction is offered for bidding. There is a pre-auction estimate stating the estimated selling price range. The estimate serves as a guideline to bidders, items may sell within the range, or sometimes for more.

RESERVE

There is a “reserve”, or minimum, on most items at auction. Items offered at auction are not for sale below a reserve. Reserves are confidential. You could assume that the lowest selling price might be the low end of the pre-auction estimate.

PLANNNG A BID

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Once you have found what you absolutely must have (very likely at a Dupuis auction), you will want to think about how much you want to spend. Successful bidders have so many things to choose from. You may want to provide yourself with some alternatives in case you find that someone wants it even more than you, and bids beyond your limit.

If you are bidding, a bid is an offer to buy. If you are the highest bidder, the jewel is yours (once you pay). You will be required to pay the bid amount plus a buyer’s premium of 25% and appropriate sales tax. Remember this when planning your budget.

STRATEGY

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Some people will lead off on the bidding, others will hold back to see what’s going to happen, jumping in at the last minute. Some nod their head or scratch their ear, it’s easiest for the auctioneer to see a paddle held high. There’s no correct way, but auctioneers prefer that you bid high and bid often.

IF YOU “WIN”

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If you are the successful bidder, you have 5 days to pay for the jewel that you have purchased. Payment can be made by bank draft, wire transfer, or credit card.

ENJOY YOUR JEWELS

Award Winning Jewels

Diamonds International Award winning jewels: Lot 297 Bick & Ostor maple leaf

Diamonds International Award Winning Jewel, 1960, by Bick & Ostor, Montreal. Lot 297 in the Dupuis Fall 2015 Auction

JEWELLERY DESIGN

Jewels are small works of art. Each is designed and planned by an artist who has the ideas to create a small wearable artwork. Jewellery design competitions are a place for artists to shine. The designer uses precious materials and creativity to produce a jewel that makes us sit up and pay attention.

INSPIRATION for Award Winning Jewels

Award winning jewels are the result of the artist’s imagination, plus competition guidelines, and materials that provide inspiration.

A designer will have their own ideas and style that set their jewel apart from the competition. There are judges for competitions who will decide which designs stand above the rest. Those selected will be featured as the award winning jewels.

Award Winning Jewels: Lot 297 Fall 2015 Diamonds international winner 1960

Original Watercolour Rendering (Left), and the Finished jewel (Right), Diamonds International Winner, 1960, by Bick & Ostor, lot 297, Dupuis Fall 2012 Auction

COMPETITION

Jewellery designers will use competitions to express themselves in ways that may not be possible in day to day work. It is a little like clothing design: Runway fashion shows express the pure art of the designer, but may not show the regular day to day designs. Award winning jewels will be one-of-a-kind, and use the finest materials and artisanship.

Many industry groups hold design competitions. The jewellery world has these contests in many specialty areas.

The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) has the annual “Spectrum Competition” for designs featuring coloured gemstones.  AGTA Spectrum Awards

Award Winning Jewels: lot 388 Fall 2012

Cultured pearl brooch, Lot 338, sold in the Dupuis Fall 2012 Jewels Auction, was an Award Winner in a Pearl Jewel Design Competition

The Cultured Pearl Association of America selects award winning jewels from entrants to its competition for cultured pearl jewellery design.  Cultured Pearl Association of America design awards

DIAMONDS INTERNATIONAL Award Winning Jewels

Diamonds International Awards catalogue 1960

Diamonds International Awards Catalogue from 1960, featuring the Bick & Ostor Maple Leaf Jewel

The BIG one in the world of international jewellery design competitions is the Diamonds International Awards. For decades, designers from around the world have sent their best diamond jewel designs to the contest by deBeers marketing office, the “diamond is forever” people. The award winning jewels were selected by specialists, and travelled the world to show what amazing things could be done in jewels featuring diamonds.

Award Winning jewels: Jane Parker seejane draw design Diamonds International Winner Speckled Trout

Diamonds International Award Winning Jewel by Jane Parker, 1990 (made by Birks, not sold at Dupuis Auctions)

At Dupuis, we are proud to be able to offer a Diamonds International Award winning jewel in the Fall 2015 Auction.

Presentation Jewels

Through history, jewels and items of precious metal have been given as tokens of recognition. These tokens are sometimes made as presentations to people who have achieved something of note.

Presentation: A Gold Watch For 25 Years of Service

Presentation items are given in recognition of service to a company, for years of service, goals reached, contracts clinched, and many other possible achievements. A brooch or plaque honouring ten years of service, or gold watches for 25 years of service are common presentation jewels.

Spring 2013 lot 526 presentation jewels

Eaton 1/4 century presentation watch, given for 25 years of service to a Eaton department store Lot 526, Dupuis Spring 2013 Auction

Sometimes a presentation jewel may be a token of appreciation for work well done, or for contribution to an achieved goal.

Presentation Jewels: A Case in Recognition of Service

Presentation jewels are often plaques, plates, cups or boxes, frequently made of precious metal.

Cartier W.H. Manton 141 presentation jewels

Silver and gold presentation compact given by Queen Elizabeth, Lot 141, Spring 2015 Auction

At Dupuis we are honoured to have had the opportunity to offer such an item. This silver and gold compact was commissioned on behalf of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II.  It was given to a loyal subject in recognition of service to the Commonwealth. It was presented in a red leather box bearing the Queen’s QEII cypher, and signed by Cartier.

Thought in almost new condition, this box appears to actually have been lightly used by its recipient, which is good: There are so many presentation items that are put on a table and never used again. These are items that deserve to be worn, carried, or used with pride.

One type of presentation jewel that is usually worn with pride is a championship sports ring. These rings are given to the victorious team members in annual championships. Championship rings are given for the World Series, Super Bowl, Grey Cup, or of course, the ever elusive Stanley Cup (at least to Toronto fans).

Jewels of Achievement: Championship Rings

Championship rings have a special meaning, and like all presentation jewels, each is unique, bearing the name of the person or organization presenting it, or the person receiving it.

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A Toronto Maple Leafs Stanley Cup Ring (1967) One of the rarest of Presentation Jewels (this one was not sold at a Dupuis Auction, but if you have one…)

Presentation jewels are very specialized, and Dupuis Auctions is always interested in considering items for possible consignment: www.dupuis.ca

Tiaras and crowns

Conch pearl and diamond tiara

Offered in Spring 2015 Dupuis Fine Jewels Auction

Tiara: A Jeweller’s Crowning Achievement

Exceptional antique diamond tiara

Antique with Diamonds, Offered at Dupuis Spring 2008 Auction, Sold for $230,000

Once in a rare while, a tiara becomes available to the auction bidder. Tiaras are the essence of elegance, and always turn a gathering into an event. They convert a dance into a ball, the downtrodden Cinderella into Prince Charming’s sweetheart (snow-white horses, a golden carriage and glass slippers help, too).

Moon stone tiara, Circa 1900

Antique, With Moonstones, Sold in the Dupuis Fall 2011 Jewels Auction

A tiara is a crown worn high on the head, and usually has a semi-circular shape. Tiaras have been worn, in one form or another, for thousands of years, but the 19th century produced some of the most beautiful and ornate of these jewels. The finest tiaras are decorated with gems mounted in precious metal.

Diamond Flower tiara

Victorian Flower Form with  Diamonds, Sold in the Dupuis Spring 2005 Jewels Auction

Royal heads around the world are regularly adorned with tiaras for special events and public appearances. Similarly, women with a complete and elegant jewellery wardrobe have a tiara for special occasions. However, even royalty may not wear a tiara every day, so we find it helpful to have a tiara that can be converted to other uses.

Small sapphire and diamond head top tiara

Set with Sapphire and Diamonds, Sold in the Dupuis Spring 2012 Auction

Many exquisite Victorian tiaras were convertible to necklace use, or could be taken apart to become earrings, bracelets, brooches, pendants (with additional fittings), greatly expanding their function in the owner’s jewel collection. Originally, these jewels would have been mounted in fitted boxes, sadly these boxes are often lost to history.

Modern reproduction ruby, diamond and sapphire tiara

Ruby, Sapphire and Diamond Tiara, Sold in the Dupuis January 2008 Jewels Auction

A charming use of a convertible tiara is to wear it on your head at a dinner, and wear the same jewel as a necklace at the dance afterwards. It won’t fall off while you’re dancing.

The tiara in the Dupuis Spring 2015 auction is adorned with diamonds and pearls, and it features a very rare collection of beautiful pink conch pearls. With the original accompanying diamond-mounted attachment, it easily converts to an elegant and stunning necklace. The set is offered with the original fitted box.

If there is a tiara around, everyone wants to try it on. I certainly do.

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Everyone wants to wear one

 

ABC of Gems

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A collection of many different gems in a bracelet

There is a beautiful and interesting gem for almost every letter of the alphabet. We all had an A B C book when we were little, why not carry this forward into our adult life (or our continued childhood) with an ABC of Gems? (All of the items featured in the photographs in this ABC of Gems have been offered in Dupuis Fine Jewellery Auctions, with the exception of those at U, V, W, X, and Y).

Amethyst, the February birthstone, has a very long history, and is a lovely violet gem, here is an example of some violets carved from amethyst:

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Amethyst flowers

Beryl is a gem found in many colours including blue (aquamarine), and green (emerald). These golden beryls are specially cut and matched for this brooch:

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A fan of custom cut golden beryls

Coral is found in the Mediterranean Sea, and forms in branch-like shapes with red, orange and pink colours:

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Coral stems on a flower brooch

Diamond, the world’s best known gem, is the hardest substance in nature. It forms deep in the earth, and is carried to the surface by volcanic activity. We need to move tons of rock to extract a single carat of this exceptional gem. Diamond is the birthstone for April.

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diamond solitaire pendant 9.38 carats

Emerald is a green gem, with a very long history from “Cleopatra’s emerald mine” in the ancient world, to the famous source of emeralds in Colombia. The fresh spring-like green of an emerald makes it a calming and refreshing gem. Emerald is the birthstone for May.

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Emerald and diamonds in a ballerina ring

Fibrolite, is a less common gem, and is often found exhibiting a clear and sharp “cat’s eye”. The colour is often grey.

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Fibrolite cat’s eye ring

Garnet is a gem found in every colour of the rainbow. Best known as a brownish red gem, garnet is also found in rare yellowish green Demantoid, and brilliant green Tsavorite. Garnet is there birthstone for January.

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Very fine tsavorite garnet

Hematite is a bright, shiny grey metallic gem, often used as beads, or in men’s jewellery.

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Hematite in cufflinks and tie tac by Schlumberger for Tiffany

Ivory is a gem principally from the tusks of elephants. There are some beautiful gems and carvings made from ivory. It is from an endangered species, trade is restricted, and is no longer offered at auction by Dupuis.

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Ivory netsuke carving

Jadeite jade is a gem principally found in Myanmar (formerly Burma), and is most prized in a rich uniform green colour and with a high degree of translucency.

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Fine jadeite jade and diamond ring

Kunzite is a pink to purple gem found in the United States and Afghanistan, and it is named after a gemologist and friend of Louis Comfort Tiffany, George Kunz.

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Kunzite and diamond ring

Lapis lazuli is a rich blue ornamental gem. The most famous source is Afghanistan, and the gems from there can be a vivid blue unlike any other gem.

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Lapis Lazuli and gold necklace

Moonstone is a mysterious gem that has a silvery “moon” that floats around as the gem moves.

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Antique moonstone necklace

Nephrite jade is one of two gems named jade. Most notably in an olive green colour. It is found in countries around the world, including in Canada’s British Columbia.

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Nephrite jade leaves and coral beads in a brooch

Opal is famous for its flashes of the colours of the spectrum. It is most valuable if it has bright flashes of all colours of the spectrum. The best known source is Australia. Opal is the birthstone for October.

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Black opal and diamond ring

Pearl was likely used as an ornamental gem before almost anything else. Pearls were the first “free prizes” in the history of food. Biting into an oyster and finding a pearl was a pretty nice bonus for our ancient ancestors. Natural pearls are very rare today, but are still sometimes found. Pearl is the birthstone for June.

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Cultured pearl necklace in a rainbow of colours

Quartz, truly an ABC of gems in itself, is a gem that has colours and textures to suit all styles and tastes. Quartz has been found in ancient jewels, and it is found in every continent. Amethyst is the most precious variety, Citrine follows closely behind, carnelian is a translucent orange variety that has been used for thousands of years.

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Citrine bracelet

Ruby is a red gem, most famously found in Myanmar (formerly Burma). it is the birthstone for July, it is associated with Power and passion. The inner glow of a fine ruby is unlike any other gem. Ruby is the birthstone for July.

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Ruby and diamond ring, “pigeon blood” colour

 

Sapphire is another ABC of gems because it can be any colour except red (red colour of this mineral is called ruby). The most sought after sapphire is a rich velvety blue colour that is now depleted, but was found in Kashmir until the mid-20th Century. Currently sapphires are found in Myanmar (formerly Burma), Sri Lanka, Madagascar, Thailand, Cambodia, Australia, and even in Canada’s Baffin Island. Other highly desired colours are pink, and yellow.  Sapphire is the birthstone for September.

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Antique sapphire and diamond ring

Topaz is best known in two main colours, yellowish orange (sometimes called “imperial topaz”), and blue. but it is found in pink, colourless, and others too. Found in many countries including Brazil and Russia, it is the birthstone for November.

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Topaz necklace

Uvarovite is a variety of garnet that usually forms in tiny crystals, sometimes used as “drusy” (clusters of tiny crystals covering a surface) in finished jewellery. Very rarely it is large enough crystals to facet (but still very small)

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Uvarovite garnet (0.50mm in diameter)

Vulcanite was produced in the 19th Century as an inexpensive alternative to the organic gem, jet. Vulcanite is an opaque black vulcanized rubber compound that is hard, and was usually moulded into what appeared as carved forms.

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Vulcanite cameo mounted on mother of pearl

Welo Opal is named after its source in Ethiopia. It is opal from a new source, and is noted for bright colours.

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Welo opal (rough – unpolished)

X-Ray (some letters in an ABC of Gems are more difficult) Used in the identification of pearls, X-Ray testing can assist in separating natural pearls from cultured pearls. X-rays are also used in separating diamonds from ore at diamond mines.

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X-ray of cultured pearls showing mother of pearl beads inside the cultured pearls

 

Yttrium Aluminium Garnet (YAG) is a laboratory grown material originally used as a diamond simulant, it is now produced in many different colours. It is hard and durable, and serves as an inexpensive imitation of other gems.

Yttrium Aluminium garnet (synthetic)

Laboratory grown YAG

Zircon (we can finish an ABC of Gems with a genuine gem): Zircon is a natural gem that is found in yellow, brown, green, blue and colourless. Zircons can be very pretty and dispersive, showing sparkles of colour you might expect in a diamond.

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Zircon and diamond ring

Colour in diamonds

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Lot 411: A Coloured Diamond Ring. 6.50 carats, fancy yellow colour, VVS-1 clarity. Offered in the Fall 2014 Dupuis Jewels Auction

 

We usually think of diamonds as being colourless sparkly beauties that create joy among the recipients. And so they are. However, we also have diamonds that are colourful sparkly beauties, too. Colour is a property of almost all diamonds, but in many cases it is so slight that we have a hard time noticing it.

In some rare cases, there can be enough colour to make diamonds very interesting and attractive. The colours may be anywhere in the spectrum.

What is is that makes a diamond valuable? You know the famous “4 c’s”; carat weight, clarity, cut, and, of course, colour. Colour can have a huge influence on the value. The rarer the colour, the more value it will have, all other things being equal.

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Lot 329: A Pair of Diamond Ear Studs. One centre diamond is “D” colour, the other is “E”. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

What is rare colour? Most diamonds have a degree of yellow in them, but in many we don’t really notice it. Diamond colour is graded alphabetically. “D” in diamond is totally colourless, and as we make our way through, we find more tint with each further letter in the alphabet. Only when we reach “Z” do we edge towards a pretty and desirable colour in a diamond.

YELLOW

Diamonds that have yellow colour slightly lighter than “Z” may be called “light fancy”, more intense than “Z” are considered “fancy” yellow diamonds, stronger yellow than “fancy” are called “intense”, and the strongest, brightest yellow is called “vivid”.

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Lot 299: A Coloured diamond Pendant Necklace. Light fancy yellow diamonds. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

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Lot 487: Coloured Diamond and 18K White Gold Ring. Natural fancy yellow. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

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Lot 365: An Unmounted Coloured Diamond. Fancy intense yellow 3.05 carats, VVS-1 clarity. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

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Lot 269: A Coloured Diamond Ring. Fancy Vivid yellow, 2.04 carats, VVS-2 clarity. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

THE FULL SPECTRUM

If we go beyond yellow, there is a spectrum of colour available in diamonds, from tiny variations in tint to a whole rainbow.

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A range of natural colour diamonds, from faint pink, yellow, blue and brown, through fancy, intense, vivid and deep

The words used to describe yellow colours are also used to describe other colours: Faint, Light Fancy, Fancy, Fancy Intense, Fancy Vivid for increasing colour saturation, plus Fancy Dark, and Fancy Deep for the darker tones.

Historically, diamonds that have noticeable and attractive colour have been known to be rare and highly desirable. The Dresden Green, a 41 carat bright green diamond in the collection in the Green Vault in Dresden is one of the most famous. Probably the most famous coloured diamond in the world is the Hope Diamond at the Smithsonian in Washington, it is a 45.52 carat fancy blue colour.

BROWN

Brown colours, often referred to as “Champagne” diamonds are more available than other colours, due to production at the Argyle mine in Australia. There is good demand for these diamonds, particularly among designers of modern jewellery.

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Lot 644: Coloured Diamond and Two-Tone 18K Gold Ring. Brown colour. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

CHAMELEON

There are some unusual diamonds that do tricks. They change colour when left in the dark for a few days, and then are exposed to light, or are examined at room temperature and then are gently heated to about 150 degrees C. These unusual and rare diamonds change from a somewhat olive green in light, or at room temperature,  to a yellowish brown when kept in the dark, or heated.

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Lot 534: Unmounted 1.64 Carat “Chameleon” Diamond. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Sale

PINK

Pink is among the most desirable of colours, and the Argyle mine in Australia is the source of most pink diamonds. Pinks have been in very high demand, and prices have escalated amid speculation about the imminent closure of the Argyle mine. The Victor Mine, in Ontario, Canada has also produced the occasional, very rare pink. Brazil has produced some large pink diamonds.

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Lot 658: An Unmounted 0.21 carat Coloured Diamond. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

BLUE

Blue diamonds are extremely rare, and occasionally a bidder will have the opportunity to add one to their collection through auction. Blue is a rare accident of nature, some have originated in India, some in Africa, and some at the Argyle mine in Australia. The Hope diamond would have originated in India.

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Lot 298: A Coloured Diamond Ring. Light Grey Blue. Offered in the Dupuis Spring 2014 Jewels Auction

RED

The rarest of all colours is red. Red diamonds are so rare that most of us will never see one. There are only be a few produced each year. Some red diamonds may sell for over as a million dollars a carat. The Argyle Mine in Australia is the best known source for red.

Diamond Natural fancy red Argyle 0.22ct (4)

Red diamond, 0.22 carat, mined at the Argyle mine in Australia

Auction is the place where we see the majority of important coloured diamonds offered for sale. At Dupuis, each auction sees numerous coloured diamonds available for bidding.

www.dupuis.ca will take you to past and current catalogues.

Nature in Jewels

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A Diamond and White Gold Floral Brooch: Lot 352 in the Dupuis Fall Auction

The work of the goldsmith and jewellery artist constantly reveals influences of nature in jewels. Faberge’s eggs, made to commemorate birth, life and reconciliation are an obvious example. The sprays of flowers that were so popular in the 1950’s and 1960’s, bringing the garden indoors, add sparkle and glitter to any occasion.

Organic Gems

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Five Coral and 10K gold jewels: Lot 507 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 auction

We regularly see genuine pieces of nature in jewels, too. We refer to these as “organic gems” and they are actually the product of nature, used as jewels or as gems in jewellery.

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South Sea Cultured Pearl and 18K gold Necklace: Lot 542 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

Pearls are probably the first gem ever collected: Smooth, shiny things that came right out of an oyster, ready to wear.

Amber is fossilized resin from pre-historic trees. It’s been collected around the shores of the Baltic Sea for centuries. It is at its most interesting, and far more valuable when there are other elements of nature in jewels of amber; insects or plant material, or even small lizards. These inclusions aren’t found in other gems, and make amber quite unique.

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Coral (red coral and black coral), Diamond, Cultured Pearl and Sterling Silver Brooch: Lot 450 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

Coral is a beautiful jewel of nature, most popularly in red, orange and pink colours. Coral provides an excellent accent to jewellery and also stands on its own very well as beads or carved gems.

Fauna

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A Gold Snake Bangle Bracelet: Lot 267 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

There are also many realistic or fantastic representations of nature in jewels, a favourite at auction is animal shapes, either domestic or wild animals, or mythological creatures. The Cartier Panther, a Van Cleef & Arpels lion, dolphins, or the articulated fish on grandmother’s charm bracelet. These are all animal forms found regularly in jewellery. Dragons, gryphons, and unicorns are among the fantastic creatures seen in jewellery.

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14K Gold Cat Brooch: Lot 460 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

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Gem Set and 18K gold Dog Brooch: Lot 459 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

Cats are often seen in jewellery, from domestic large-eyed kittens to dangerous lions, they cover the range from cute to daunting. “Man’s best friend”, the dog, is represented in jewels regularly, whether a charm of our favourite pug or a hunting dog represented carved in intaglio in an Essex crystal. Of course, we also see real dogs wearing jewels sometimes. Which self respecting lap dog would turn down the offer of a diamond collar?

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A Diamond and Gold Bird Brooch (by Van Cleef & Arpels): Lot 29 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

Birds are very common representations of nature in jewels. Perhaps symbolizing freedom, or simply because some of the most beautiful and elegant creatures on the earth are birds, winged creatures are often seen flying through the air below our ears, or as pendants on a chain, or as brooches.

Flora

28

Gold Oak Leaf Cuff Bracelet, by Buccellati: Lot 28 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

Branches and leaves embrace our wrists, fingers, or collars regularly. Tendrils, vines, bunches of grapes are common themes, bringing elements of plants in nature to our wardrobe of accessories.

543

Diamond and 14K White Gold Pendant/Brooch: Lot 543 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

Often the elements of nature in jewels are more subtle, and are only representations that leave an impression of nature without a direct reference to a plant or animal. These inspirations are probably the most common, and are among the most inspired designs around.

Nature is all around us, so it isn’t surprising that jewellers find themselves being influenced by the beauty of it all.

335

A Diamond, Pink and Yellow Sapphire Floral Brooch: Lot 335 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

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