Category: Auctions (Page 2 of 3)

Auctions Simplified

October 26, 2016 / Duncan Parker

AUCTIONS

Bidding at an auction, or even attending an auction, is an adventure that’s entertaining and fun.

Some people wonder if going to an auction might see them leaving with treasures they didn’t mean to buy. The idea of bidding on something because you winked your eye or coughed does make some people a little nervous. The auctioneer works hard to recognize real bids, so a laugh or a raised eyebrow likely won’t generate a bid.

Dupuis provides you with the opportunity to acquire beautiful jewels through the highly respected centuries-old process of auction.

Buying at auction is simple, you can bid and buy with confidence and comfort. At auction, we aim to provide as much detail and information as possible.

CATALOGUES

All Dupuis auctions have a catalogue that includes a photo of each jewel, a title, and a description. Catalogues are issued in print for Dupuis Live auctions, and catalogues are on line and on phone and tablet apps for all auctions.

CONDITION REPORTS

In many cases, there is an additional “condition report” to make you a well-informed bidder. Condition reports may include measurements, ring sizes, colour descriptions, and other pertinent details.

MORE INFORMATION

If you need additional details that are not included in catalogues or condition reports, Dupuis is happy to answer to your questions. We can provide more information or photos.

PREVIEWS

Previews allow anyone to try on any of the jewels in the auction. Dupuis Auctions features a gallery with all of the jewels displayed in showcases. Dupuis knowledgable staff are on hand to assist. Previews are free, and no bookings are necessary to visit.

AUCTION DAY/WEEK

Dupuis live auctions are held on one Sunday in November, and one Sunday in June. Online auctions last for one week.

In order to bid at the auction, you do need to register. The process is very simple, there is one form to fill in, it can be done in advance, on line, or on auction day at the venue.

ESTIMATES

Each item in the auction is offered for bidding. There is a pre-auction estimate stating the estimated selling price range. The estimate serves as a guideline to bidders, items may sell within the range, or sometimes for more.

RESERVE

There is a “reserve”, or minimum, on most items at auction. Items offered at auction are not for sale below a reserve. Reserves are confidential. You could assume that the lowest selling price might be the low end of the pre-auction estimate.

PLANNNG A BID

Once you have found what you absolutely must have (very likely at a Dupuis auction), you will want to think about how much you want to spend. Successful bidders have so many things to choose from. You may want to provide yourself with some alternatives in case you find that someone wants it even more than you, and bids beyond your limit.

If you are bidding, a bid is an offer to buy. If you are the highest bidder, the jewel is yours (once you pay). You will be required to pay the bid amount plus a buyer’s premium of 25% and appropriate sales tax. Remember this when planning your budget.

STRATEGY

Some people will lead off on the bidding, others will hold back to see what’s going to happen, jumping in at the last minute. Some nod their head or scratch their ear, it’s easiest for the auctioneer to see a paddle held high. There’s no correct way, but auctioneers prefer that you bid high and bid often.

IF YOU “WIN”

If you are the successful bidder, you have 5 days to pay for the jewel that you have purchased. Payment can be made by bank draft, wire transfer, or credit card.

ENJOY YOUR JEWELS

Presentation Jewels

May 26, 2015 / Duncan Parker

Through history, jewels and items of precious metal have been given as tokens of recognition. These tokens are sometimes made as presentations to people who have achieved something of note.

Presentation: A Gold Watch For 25 Years of Service

Presentation items are given in recognition of service to a company, for years of service, goals reached, contracts clinched, and many other possible achievements. A brooch or plaque honouring ten years of service, or gold watches for 25 years of service are common presentation jewels.

Eaton 1/4 century presentation watch, given for 25 years of service to a Eaton department store Lot 526, Dupuis Spring 2013 Auction

Sometimes a presentation jewel may be a token of appreciation for work well done, or for contribution to an achieved goal.

Presentation Jewels: A Case in Recognition of Service

Presentation jewels are often plaques, plates, cups or boxes, frequently made of precious metal.

Cartier W.H. Manton 141 presentation jewels

Silver and gold presentation compact given by Queen Elizabeth, Lot 141, Spring 2015 Auction

At Dupuis we are honoured to have had the opportunity to offer such an item. This silver and gold compact was commissioned on behalf of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. It was given to a loyal subject in recognition of service to the Commonwealth. It was presented in a red leather box bearing the Queen’s QEII cypher, and signed by Cartier.

Thought in almost new condition, this box appears to actually have been lightly used by its recipient, which is good: There are so many presentation items that are put on a table and never used again. These are items that deserve to be worn, carried, or used with pride.

One type of presentation jewel that is usually worn with pride is a championship sports ring. These rings are given to the victorious team members in annual championships. Championship rings are given for the World Series, Super Bowl, Grey Cup, or of course, the ever elusive Stanley Cup (at least to Toronto fans).

Jewels of Achievement: Championship Rings

Championship rings have a special meaning, and like all presentation jewels, each is unique, bearing the name of the person or organization presenting it, or the person receiving it.

duncan 2008 pictures 2587 presentation jewels

A Toronto Maple Leafs Stanley Cup Ring (1967) One of the rarest of Presentation Jewels (this one was not sold at a Dupuis Auction, but if you have one…)

Presentation jewels are very specialized, and Dupuis Auctions is always interested in considering items for possible consignment: www.dupuis.ca

Tiaras and crowns

May 6, 2015 / Duncan Parker

Offered in Spring 2015 Dupuis Fine Jewels Auction

Tiara: A Jeweller’s Crowning Achievement

Antique with Diamonds, Offered at Dupuis Spring 2008 Auction, Sold for $230,000

Once in a rare while, a tiara becomes available to the auction bidder. Tiaras are the essence of elegance, and always turn a gathering into an event. They convert a dance into a ball, the downtrodden Cinderella into Prince Charming’s sweetheart (snow-white horses, a golden carriage and glass slippers help, too).

Antique, With Moonstones, Sold in the Dupuis Fall 2011 Jewels Auction

A tiara is a crown worn high on the head, and usually has a semi-circular shape. Tiaras have been worn, in one form or another, for thousands of years, but the 19^th century produced some of the most beautiful and ornate of these jewels. The finest tiaras are decorated with gems mounted in precious metal.

Victorian Flower Form with Diamonds, Sold in the Dupuis Spring 2005 Jewels Auction

Royal heads around the world are regularly adorned with tiaras for special events and public appearances. Similarly, women with a complete and elegant jewellery wardrobe have a tiara for special occasions. However, even royalty may not wear a tiara every day, so we find it helpful to have a tiara that can be converted to other uses.

Small sapphire and diamond head top tiara

Set with Sapphire and Diamonds, Sold in the Dupuis Spring 2012 Auction

Many exquisite Victorian tiaras were convertible to necklace use, or could be taken apart to become earrings, bracelets, brooches, pendants (with additional fittings), greatly expanding their function in the owner’s jewel collection. Originally, these jewels would have been mounted in fitted boxes, sadly these boxes are often lost to history.

Modern reproduction ruby, diamond and sapphire tiara

Ruby, Sapphire and Diamond Tiara, Sold in the Dupuis January 2008 Jewels Auction

A charming use of a convertible tiara is to wear it on your head at a dinner, and wear the same jewel as a necklace at the dance afterwards. It won’t fall off while you’re dancing.

The tiara in the Dupuis Spring 2015 auction is adorned with diamonds and pearls, and it features a very rare collection of beautiful pink conch pearls. With the original accompanying diamond-mounted attachment, it easily converts to an elegant and stunning necklace. The set is offered with the original fitted box.

If there is a tiara around, everyone wants to try it on. I certainly do.

Everyone wants to wear one

Colour in diamonds

November 6, 2014 / Duncan Parker

Lot 411: A Coloured Diamond Ring. 6.50 carats, fancy yellow colour, VVS-1 clarity. Offered in the Fall 2014 Dupuis Jewels Auction

We usually think of diamonds as being colourless sparkly beauties that create joy among the recipients. And so they are. However, we also have diamonds that are colourful sparkly beauties, too. Colour is a property of almost all diamonds, but in many cases it is so slight that we have a hard time noticing it.

In some rare cases, there can be enough colour to make diamonds very interesting and attractive. The colours may be anywhere in the spectrum.

What is is that makes a diamond valuable? You know the famous “4 c’s”; carat weight, clarity, cut, and, of course, colour. Colour can have a huge influence on the value. The rarer the colour, the more value it will have, all other things being equal.

Lot 329: A Pair of Diamond Ear Studs. One centre diamond is “D” colour, the other is “E”. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

What is rare colour? Most diamonds have a degree of yellow in them, but in many we don’t really notice it. Diamond colour is graded alphabetically. “D” in diamond is totally colourless, and as we make our way through, we find more tint with each further letter in the alphabet. Only when we reach “Z” do we edge towards a pretty and desirable colour in a diamond.

YELLOW

Diamonds that have yellow colour slightly lighter than “Z” may be called “light fancy”, more intense than “Z” are considered “fancy” yellow diamonds, stronger yellow than “fancy” are called “intense”, and the strongest, brightest yellow is called “vivid”.

Lot 299: A Coloured diamond Pendant Necklace. Light fancy yellow diamonds. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

Lot 487: Coloured Diamond and 18K White Gold Ring. Natural fancy yellow. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

Lot 365: An Unmounted Coloured Diamond. Fancy intense yellow 3.05 carats, VVS-1 clarity. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

Lot 269: A Coloured Diamond Ring. Fancy Vivid yellow, 2.04 carats, VVS-2 clarity. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

THE FULL SPECTRUM

If we go beyond yellow, there is a spectrum of colour available in diamonds, from tiny variations in tint to a whole rainbow.

A range of natural colour diamonds, from faint pink, yellow, blue and brown, through fancy, intense, vivid and deep

The words used to describe yellow colours are also used to describe other colours: Faint, Light Fancy, Fancy, Fancy Intense, Fancy Vivid for increasing colour saturation, plus Fancy Dark, and Fancy Deep for the darker tones.

Historically, diamonds that have noticeable and attractive colour have been known to be rare and highly desirable. The Dresden Green, a 41 carat bright green diamond in the collection in the Green Vault in Dresden is one of the most famous. Probably the most famous coloured diamond in the world is the Hope Diamond at the Smithsonian in Washington, it is a 45.52 carat fancy blue colour.

BROWN

Brown colours, often referred to as “Champagne” diamonds are more available than other colours, due to production at the Argyle mine in Australia. There is good demand for these diamonds, particularly among designers of modern jewellery.

Lot 644: Coloured Diamond and Two-Tone 18K Gold Ring. Brown colour. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

CHAMELEON

There are some unusual diamonds that do tricks. They change colour when left in the dark for a few days, and then are exposed to light, or are examined at room temperature and then are gently heated to about 150 degrees C. These unusual and rare diamonds change from a somewhat olive green in light, or at room temperature, to a yellowish brown when kept in the dark, or heated.

Lot 534: Unmounted 1.64 Carat “Chameleon” Diamond. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Sale

PINK

Pink is among the most desirable of colours, and the Argyle mine in Australia is the source of most pink diamonds. Pinks have been in very high demand, and prices have escalated amid speculation about the imminent closure of the Argyle mine. The Victor Mine, in Ontario, Canada has also produced the occasional, very rare pink. Brazil has produced some large pink diamonds.

Lot 658: An Unmounted 0.21 carat Coloured Diamond. Offered in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Jewels Auction

BLUE

Blue diamonds are extremely rare, and occasionally a bidder will have the opportunity to add one to their collection through auction. Blue is a rare accident of nature, some have originated in India, some in Africa, and some at the Argyle mine in Australia. The Hope diamond would have originated in India.

Lot 298: A Coloured Diamond Ring. Light Grey Blue. Offered in the Dupuis Spring 2014 Jewels Auction

RED

The rarest of all colours is red. Red diamonds are so rare that most of us will never see one. There are only be a few produced each year. Some red diamonds may sell for over as a million dollars a carat. The Argyle Mine in Australia is the best known source for red.

Diamond Natural fancy red Argyle 0.22ct (4)

Red diamond, 0.22 carat, mined at the Argyle mine in Australia

Auction is the place where we see the majority of important coloured diamonds offered for sale. At Dupuis, each auction sees numerous coloured diamonds available for bidding.

www.dupuis.ca will take you to past and current catalogues.

Nature in Jewels

October 17, 2014 / Duncan Parker

A Diamond and White Gold Floral Brooch: Lot 352 in the Dupuis Fall Auction

The work of the goldsmith and jewellery artist constantly reveals influences of nature in jewels. Faberge’s eggs, made to commemorate birth, life and reconciliation are an obvious example. The sprays of flowers that were so popular in the 1950’s and 1960’s, bringing the garden indoors, add sparkle and glitter to any occasion.

Organic Gems

Five Coral and 10K gold jewels: Lot 507 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 auction

We regularly see genuine pieces of nature in jewels, too. We refer to these as “organic gems” and they are actually the product of nature, used as jewels or as gems in jewellery.

South Sea Cultured Pearl and 18K gold Necklace: Lot 542 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

Pearls are probably the first gem ever collected: Smooth, shiny things that came right out of an oyster, ready to wear.

Amber is fossilized resin from pre-historic trees. It’s been collected around the shores of the Baltic Sea for centuries. It is at its most interesting, and far more valuable when there are other elements of nature in jewels of amber; insects or plant material, or even small lizards. These inclusions aren’t found in other gems, and make amber quite unique.

Coral (red coral and black coral), Diamond, Cultured Pearl and Sterling Silver Brooch: Lot 450 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

Coral is a beautiful jewel of nature, most popularly in red, orange and pink colours. Coral provides an excellent accent to jewellery and also stands on its own very well as beads or carved gems.

Fauna

A Gold Snake Bangle Bracelet: Lot 267 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

There are also many realistic or fantastic representations of nature in jewels, a favourite at auction is animal shapes, either domestic or wild animals, or mythological creatures. The Cartier Panther, a Van Cleef & Arpels lion, dolphins, or the articulated fish on grandmother’s charm bracelet. These are all animal forms found regularly in jewellery. Dragons, gryphons, and unicorns are among the fantastic creatures seen in jewellery.

14K Gold Cat Brooch: Lot 460 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

Gem Set and 18K gold Dog Brooch: Lot 459 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

Cats are often seen in jewellery, from domestic large-eyed kittens to dangerous lions, they cover the range from cute to daunting. “Man’s best friend”, the dog, is represented in jewels regularly, whether a charm of our favourite pug or a hunting dog represented carved in intaglio in an Essex crystal. Of course, we also see real dogs wearing jewels sometimes. Which self respecting lap dog would turn down the offer of a diamond collar?

A Diamond and Gold Bird Brooch (by Van Cleef & Arpels): Lot 29 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

Birds are very common representations of nature in jewels. Perhaps symbolizing freedom, or simply because some of the most beautiful and elegant creatures on the earth are birds, winged creatures are often seen flying through the air below our ears, or as pendants on a chain, or as brooches.

Flora

Gold Oak Leaf Cuff Bracelet, by Buccellati: Lot 28 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

Branches and leaves embrace our wrists, fingers, or collars regularly. Tendrils, vines, bunches of grapes are common themes, bringing elements of plants in nature to our wardrobe of accessories.

Diamond and 14K White Gold Pendant/Brooch: Lot 543 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

Often the elements of nature in jewels are more subtle, and are only representations that leave an impression of nature without a direct reference to a plant or animal. These inspirations are probably the most common, and are among the most inspired designs around.

Nature is all around us, so it isn’t surprising that jewellers find themselves being influenced by the beauty of it all.

A Diamond, Pink and Yellow Sapphire Floral Brooch: Lot 335 in the Dupuis Fall 2014 Auction

Jewels tell stories

July 15, 2014 / Duncan Parker

Jewels tell stories, sometimes publicly, and sometimes secretly

Victorian REGARD Ring: Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Anethyst, Ruby, Diamond spell the word

All jewels tell stories. An engagement ring carries the story of love. A wedding ring carries the story of something never-ending within its unbroken circle. An eternity ring emphasizes that unending circle of life and love.

Through history, we have seen jewels tell stories. There are some commonly seen examples of jewels telling a story. Once in a while, jewels carry a secret message, and sometimes the story is not so secret.

The Victorians had the tendency to like secret messages in their art and crafts. The “REGARD” ring was a jewel that told a story that was not really secret, because these rings were common enough that surely most people would have recognized them. The name comes from the word made up from the initials of the gems in a row across the front. Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby, Diamond. Other words were possible, but “regard” was most popular. A person, overcome with a strong “regard” for another, would present them with such a ring to convey their feelings. (The possibilities for rude messages are huge, we should be glad they aren’t common jewels these days).

A Victorian REGARD ring missing a ruby and diamond

The Victorians were also very aware of mythology, and mythological themes were often shown in carved cameos. The story told in a cameo jewel may be from classical myths. Here, there is a cameo that represents Night, a shrouded figure, looking downwards, and with a moon above her head, and Day, with clouds around her, looking with upturned face, and rays of light radiating around her head.

A Victorian cameo showing the allegory of Night and Day

The death of Queen Victoria’s husband, Albert, in 1861, sent Victoria into mourning, and the rest of Britain embraced mourning. Mourning jewels tell the story of loss. Usually decorated with black enamel or made from black gems, mourning jewels tell an obvious story of the death of a loved one. Some mourning jewels also incorporate a small piece of hair from the person being remembered

Victorian mourning ring, remembering the loss of a husband at the age of 47, in 1885

Victorian mourning jewels: Black enamelled brooch set with a camel of Rebecca at the well, and a carved jet cameo from the estate of Mrs Robertson Davies, sold at auction at Dupuis

Victorian mourning jewels, one with hair and one set with black banded agate

These days, a “family ring” tells a story. The story told by a family ring is that of the offspring of the wearer, most commonly mothers. When you see a ring with a row of apparently unrelated gemstones that don’t spell a message, it is likely a family ring.

A family ring is usually set with a group of similar sized birthstones, one for each of the children of the wearer. These jewel tells the story of the family of the mother.

A family ring with the birthstones for each of the mother’s children

Other jewels tell stories of a personal or group achievement or a victory. One of the most notable type of jewels that tell a story is a championship ring. These are very rare, and unlike a REGARD ring, which is meant to be a secret message, a championship ring is an obvious public statement.

Issued to members of a victorious team, a championship ring only goes on to a very few fingers. One of the rarest is depicted here, a Toronto Maple Leafs Stanley Cup ring. Last seen in 1967:

Toronto Maple Leafs Stanley Cup ring 1967

The engagement ring, given by Robertson Davies to Brenda, backstage at the Old Vic theatre in London, 1940

Sometimes a jewel tells stories in two ways. A famous owner can add another level of story. An engagement ring tells the story of love, but the engagement ring of a well known person tells another story at the same time. The engagement ring that famed Canadian author, journalist, publisher, and academic, Robertson Davies, gave to his true love Brenda, was sold at Dupuis Auctions, and is silver with a purple glass intaglio. It was very popular at auction because of the combined stories of the engagement and the famous owner, and sold for $1,500.00.

All jewels tell a story, but some tell more than others. Some of the stories are secrets that we may never know, and others are very public, but all are important.

Birthstones in fine jewellery?

May 15, 2014 / Duncan Parker

We all have preferences in our choice of gemstones, but one thing we might feel more connected to is our birthstone. Birthstones are gems that have been chosen for astrological reasons and are associated with certain months. In almost every auction, we find that there is a full representation of the traditional Western birthstones. Looking through these birthstones, people might be pleased to find that there are diverse choices available. Birthstones are not limited to family rings.

January: Garnet: While we tend to think of Garnets as having a narrow palette of brownish red colours, there is a broad spectrum available, green varieties such as the very rare Demantoid being the most valuable, the most famous source of demantoid is the Ural Mountains in Russia.

An Antique Demantoid Garnet and Diamond Bee Brooch: Lot 50, Spring 2014 sale

February: Amethyst is a purple variety of quartz, and is only one colour, but a beautiful colour. Amethyst is very popular today, and was also very popular in the Victorian period. In Ancient Rome, an amethyst dropped into a glass of wine was thought to prevent inebriation. It is the Provincial gemstone of Ontario, Canada.

Amethyst, Turquoise and 14K Gold Ring: Lot 462, Spring 2014 sale

March: Aquamarine is a greenish blue to blue gem. Its name derived from Latin, suggests the colour of water (aqua) and sea (marine). The gem ranges from pale to intense, and is most treasured in a strong blue colour. It most famously originates in Brazil.

Aquamarine, Diamond and 18K Gold Ring: Lot 485, Spring 2014 sale

April: Diamond is the best known gem in the world. There are more legends and histories revolving around diamonds than all other gems combined. For thousands of years, India was the only known source of these gems, until the 18th Century when they were discovered in Brazil, and the 19th Century when they were discovered in South Africa. The 21st Century sees diamonds being mined in Australia, Canada, Russia, Namibia, and Botswana, among other countries. Canada is the 3rd largest diamond producer in the world. It is rare to see a diamond as fine as Lot 388, the pear shaped 9.35 carat, F colour, VS-1 clarity gem in the Spring 2014 sale.

A Diamond Solitaire Pendant: Lot 388, Spring 2014 sale

May: Emeralds are the green variety of the mineral beryl. Historical myth states that Emperor Nero looked through an emerald monocle at gladiator fights and during the burning of Rome. Emeralds are a soothing gem. They naturally have visible inclusions, sometimes referred to as “jardin” (garden from French). It is truly rare to find an emerald as beautifully coloured and as clear to the eye as Lot 49 in the Spring 2014 sale. It is truly an exceptional gem.

An Emerald and Diamond Ring: Lot 49, Spring 2014 sale

June: Alexandrite is a fascinating gem. It appears one colour in one kind of light, and another colour in another kind of light. The gem’s name originates from the time of its discovery in Russia in April 1834 on the birthday of the future Tsar, Alexander II. Its colours from Russian sources are famously green in sunlight, and red in candlelight, or incandescent light, and red and green were the Russian national colours. Some specimens from other sources are purple to blue, but the colour change is fascinating either way.

An Alexandrite and Diamond Ring: Incandescent light (left), daylight (right): Lot 123, Spring 2014 sale

Pearls are an alternate birthstone for June. Natural pearls are very rare, and occur purely by an accident of nature. Most pearls we see are cultured, and while the outer surface is exactly the same on the cultured and natural pearls, the cultured pearls are helped along, usually by placing a mother of pearl bead inside the mollusc, and it then coats it with nacre (pearl material) for a few years. Natural pearls are the nacre material through to the centre, and may have taken many years to form. Lot 365 is a very rare and unusually large pearl that has an independent report describing it as natural.

A Natural Pearl, Diamond and Platinum Brooch (14.74mm diameter pearl): Lot 365, Spring 2014 sale

July: Ruby is a red gem, a passionate colour for a passionate gem. The finest colour is brilliantly pure red, and the gem most commonly has inclusions visible to the eye. The most famous source of ruby is Myanmar (formerly Burma). Ancient literature suggests that someone who dreams of a ruby will have good fortune. It would certainly be good fortune to be the highest bidder on the exceptionally red Lot 355. While the vast majority of rubies have been heated to improve their colour, this ruby is untreated.

A Ruby and Diamond Ring: Lot 355, Spring 2014 sale

August: Peridot is one of those gems that is only available in one colour. It is a yellowish green, and most often is clean to the eye. Historically, the most famous source of peridot is the “Serpent Isle”, in the Red Sea. The gem was used in ancient Egypt, and was only to be used by those of the highest rank in society. It was said to dispel the dark things of the night. Today, Pakistan and Myanmar (formerly Burma) are sources of important peridots. This ring by British designer Theo Fennell makes wonderful use of the colours of peridot and topaz in combination.

A Peridot and Blue Topaz Ring: Lot 280, Spring 2014 sale

September: Sapphires may be any colour except red (ruby is the same mineral, but is the red colour). Sapphires famously originate in Kashmir, Sri Lanka, and Myanmar (Burma), but are also mined in Madagascar, Australia, Thailand, and other countries. Blue is the colour most associated with sapphire, and the finest colour is a bright medium blue sometimes referred to as “cornflower blue”. Sapphire is considered to be a soothing gem.

A Sapphire and Diamond Ring: Lot 265, Spring 2014 sale

October: Opal is an unusual gem. Opals may have a number of different appearances, and may be clear and colourless to black or orange or red in their body colour, and are valued for the flashes of colours that shimmer about on their surface when they move in the light. Queen Victoria loved opals. The most famous source of opal is Australia, with the most precious, black opal, originating principally in a small town called Lightning Ridge.

A Black Opal, Diamond and Platinum Ring: Lot 252, Spring 2014 sale

November: Topaz is a gem found in numerous colours. The golden yellow colour is best known, while pink is rare. Blue in various shades is widely available, often produced by treating colourless topaz. Historically, citrine and smoky quartz have mistakenly been referred to as topaz. Brazil is the most famous source for topaz. With a slight overtone of pinkish, golden yellow topaz is often referred to as “imperial” topaz.

A Topaz and Diamond Pendant: Lot 24, Spring 2014 sale

December: Tanzanite has recently been adopted as a Birthstone for December. Introduced to the world by Tiffany, Tanzanite made its debut in 1967. This lively purplish blue gem is found principally in one source not far from the base of Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, the country after which it is named.

Unmounted 9.29-Carat Oval Tanzanite: Lot 491, Spring 2014 sale

Things always go up in value, don’t they?

May 9, 2014 / Duncan Parker

A Cultured Pearl and Diamond Necklace: Lot 251 Spring 2014 sale

An appraiser or valuer regularly hears things along the lines of “my last appraisal was eight years ago, so I guess it’s gone up since then”.

We do like to think that this is the case, but, sadly, it isn’t always. Some things will go up in value, of course, but others may remain static, or even go down. There are numerous factors that may make an item increase or decrease in value, or bring about no change at all.

Most people don’t expect their car to increase in value (with the exception of some rare collector vehicles). Age and wear and tear play havoc on a car. You rarely expect a ring to go rusty like a well used car, but a gem might chip, or ring might wear thin, an earring become bent or broken.

Outside of damage, there are other reasons why a jewel may change in value.

Fashion dictates prices sometimes. If a celebrity is seen wearing a certain gem, the demand for that type of gem may surge, and the price of that type of gem can increase. When that trend passes, or is eclipsed by another, the price may go down. If you had an appraisal done on your sapphire ring around the time that Prince William gave Kate Middleton her sapphire engagement ring, then the price may have been up, but a few years later, a new appraisal may reflect a lower price, back to the normal.

A Sapphire and Diamond Ring: Lot 162, Spring 2014 sale

The economy may cause price differences. As the world becomes more vertically integrated, mining companies are selling directly to consumers, and this can mean more aggressive pricing, and the consumer can sometimes buy for less (but still more than at auction). If lower pricing due to market changes takes hold, then the new lower price becomes the standard, and a new appraisal may reflect the new lower purchase price prevailing in the market.

Supply and demand may affect appraised price. A notable example of supply and demand affecting values is the case of South Sea cultured pearls. These are the large pearls grown in the warm waters of the Pacific, North of Australia, all the way up to Southern Asia. Several years ago, the production of these South Sea cultured pearls increased suddenly, and coincided with an increase in the supply of freshwater cultured pearls from China. South Sea cultured pearl prices plummeted to one quarter of their original retail price, and have not come back. An appraisal from the time of the higher prices will certainly be higher than an appraisal prepared now on the same pearls.

On the other hand, other items will certainly go up. If a gold bracelet was last appraised when gold was $350.00 an ounce, and gold has gone up to $1,400.00 an ounce, then it is very likely that the increase in the price of gold will have pushed the appraisal on the bracelet up, too.

An Enamel and Gold Bangle Bracelet by Fred, Paris: Lot 19, Spring 2014 sale

Another factor is other cost increases, if an item has a large labour costs or established list prices, it may be that it has increased in appraised value. If there is a fine timepiece, and the retail price has increased, the appraisal will have gone up. If a jeweller is producing jewels in a market where the labour costs are increasing, the price of an item from them may increase, and an appraisal should increase to reflect that.

A Lady’s Diamond and Gold ‘Oyster Perpetual Datejust’ Wristwatch: Lot 83, Spring 2014 sale

At auction we see all of these types of jewels, and often see appraisals that accompany them. The appraisals are usually for “replacement value”, calculated at an estimate of the cost to buy a new replacement at full price in a regular retail environment. The amount something may sell for at auction is estimated at “fair market value”, and this is a different amount again. Fair market value is established through comparison to recent auction results for the nearest equivalent item that has recently sold at auction.

An auction aims to sell your jewels at the highest price possible by exposing them to thousands of potential bidders. It is extremely rare, however, to be able to realize the retail appraised value for an item of jewellery or watch sold at auction. We get as close as the bidding takes it, and generally have a reserve (minimum), so you know it won’t go below an agreed amount.

A Brooch With Greatness

May 6, 2014 / Duncan Parker

Antique Enamel and Diamond Lapel Locket: Lot 264, Spring 2014 sale

A brooch is something that makes a statement to the world. It’s often worn on a coat, blazer or jacket, it isn’t limited to a time of day or a type of clothing. Women and men wear brooches equally.

The brooch has undergone many changes and variations, from a clip to secure clothes, to a badge of rank for soldiers, and it still serves those purposes, even if only symbolically.

We wear brooches, but only to to symbolically secure our clothes. The drapery of the ancient world may have been secured with a pin or brooch, while the traditional dress clips of the 1930’s and 1940’s were worn symbolically representing such things, but were purely decorative. These days dress clips, which generally come in pairs, are worn with a special fitting that allows them to be joined to form a larger single brooch.

Three Blue Zircon Jewels, Including Dress Clips: Lot 228 Spring 2014 sale

Historically, when brooches weren’t used to secure clothing, they were used to represent a rank in society or membership in an organization. In modern jewellery, a brooch may be work to represent membership in a service club, or years of dedication, perhaps to a job or a relationship. More often than not, however, these days, a brooch is a personal reward, purchased for one’s own enjoyment “because I’ve earned it”.

Madeleine Albright, former secretary of State of the United States, is a famous brooch collector and wearer. Her collection of brooches is extensive, and she is rarely seen without a brooch. Albright has written a book Read My Pins, about her collection of brooches.

Brooches can address many moods, and state many things about the wearer. In a recent auction we featured a beautifully carved tortoiseshell brooch that was purely fun, and a joy to wear.

Antique Tortoiseshell Putto Brooch: Lot 486, spring 2013

Often a brooch may feature a collection of gems, and is perfect as a spring flower garland.

Multi Gem and Gold Floral Brooch: Lot 283, Spring 2014 sale

A crescent is a classic shape of brooch, widely used in the 19th Century, it harkens to the “mysterious” East, at a time when the world was getting a little smaller. Europeans were fascinated with the world of Turkey, Persia (now Iran, the world’s most famous source of turquoise), and further afield.

Antique Turquoise and Diamond Crescent Brooch: Lot 173, Spring 2014 sale

The diamond brooch can work well in any situation. Diamonds will complement any outfit and any colour. The Spring auction features an impressive collection of diamond brooches, from antiques, through floral sprays, to very modern statement pieces.

The beginning of the Twentieth Century, and the end of the Victorian era saw the lightening of jewellery forms. The jewels of the Belle Epoque were light, lacy, and had an inspiration from the forms of nature. Brooches were very popular at the time, and these styles carry an enduring beauty.

Belle Epoque Pearl and Diamond Brooch (Circa 1910): Lot 258, Spring 2014 sale

Art Deco (around 1925-1930) remains a favourite among jewellery collectors and wearers. The style, originated nearly a century ago, remains fresh and stylish today. The geometric forms work well with so much fashion worn today. Men often wear Art deco brooches on their lapels.

Art Deco Diamond and Platinum Bar Brooch: Lot 269, Spring 2014 sale

The 1940’s, in the period after the war, there was a desire to wear big jewels, especially after the restraint and restrictions of the previous five years. Retro is the name of the style from this period. Retro Jewels often feature large curves in highly polished gold and rubies (frequently laboratory grown rubies) and diamonds.

Retro Citrine Ruby, Diamond and Gold Brooch: Lot 327, Spring 2014 sale

The 1950’s and 1960’s saw a real interest in the brooch. Going out without being appropriately accessorized with a brooch was like going out without shoes. The well dressed woman had a brooch for every occasion. The classic was a diamond brooch, often in a stylized flower form or a floral spray. With the styles of the 1960’s coming so much into vogue, there is a real interest in the appropriate accompanying accessories. In jewellery, there’s no need to settle for reproductions, it’s possible to purchase originals at auction.

Diamond And Platinum Floral Brooch, 1960’s: Lot 183, Spring 2014 sale

Brooches are ready to wear, never needs to be sized, and being worn affixed to clothes, brooches are usually in very good condition. Brooches are classic jewels and perfect statements of personal style.

Art Nouveau Pendant at Auction

March 25, 2014 / Duncan Parker

Art Nouveau Pendant at Auction

To be offered in the Spring 2014 sale, June 22, this pendant is an elegantly simple jewel. It came to the auction in a fitted box, can you imagine a workshop set up specifically to build boxes that are made to fit individual jewels?

This pendant dates from the time when only natural pearls were available, so it is likely that the pearls are natural. We have not verified them, but they are certainly bright and lustrous.

This Art Nouveau design is symmetrical, with a lyre-like form composed of diamonds in ribbons of silver topped gold.

Dating from before white gold was introduced, and prior to the widespread use of platinum, silver was the white metal of choice for setting diamonds to show them to the best effect.

After a century, the silver has a dark colour, and perhaps shows the diamonds to even better effect. However, even compared to many modern items, it is in very good condition.

Its size and form are perfect for almost any occasion, from casual gatherings to formal affairs.

Category: Auctions (Page 2 of 3)

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Presentation Jewels

Presentation: A Gold Watch For 25 Years of Service

Presentation Jewels: A Case in Recognition of Service

Jewels of Achievement: Championship Rings

Tiaras and crowns

Colour in diamonds

Nature in Jewels

Jewels tell stories

Birthstones in fine jewellery?

Things always go up in value, don’t they?

A Brooch With Greatness

Art Nouveau Pendant at Auction

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